I have a 50 gallon natural gas water heater that is just 2 years old. It recently started making a screeching sound when hot water is run. The hot water pressure is also now noticeably less than the cold. I drained a very small amount of murky water from the drain valve which had no affect.
Probably the factory-installed heat trap nipples are clogged.
Open following links.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html#trap
Noisy whistling and humming and low pressure are common problem with heat trap nipples and inserts from factory.
Replace heat-trap nipples with pex-lined nipples, or remove heat trap inserts with screwdriver or needle nose... careful not to break insert so it falls into tank ... which can then get lodged in hot water line elbow or under-sink shut off.
Factory-installed heat traps are part of overall strategy so manufactures can claim more efficient water heaters, without requiring customers to any thinking.
Other strategies include foam insulation instead of fiberglass (so that wires cannot be replaced on electric units), reducing factory-set temperature from previous 130-135 to 100-120, and re-estimating downward the hot water use for average family.
So some of the strategies are useful, while others problematic or imaginary.
Call manufacturer to pay-for or provide new pex-line nipples. Warranty for fist year covers Labor and parts, and after 1st year, warranty covers parts
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
Save $10 a month in future replacement costs: maintain water heater so it lasts longer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-maintain-water-heater.html
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
SOURCE: dripping from drain spout
If you are refering to the "Dripping coming from the preasure tempature valve,Then just turn off the valve where the water goes into the heater and open the P/T valve with a bucket below it draining only emought water to get below the level where it reaches. Normally the drain valves are plastic with a Male hosebib attached. Attach a garden hose to the rain and run it out to a point lower that the vaslve in order for gravity to drain the tank.The valve opens counter clock wise. If the valve is stuck or does not drain,and you have a foor drain handy,remove the whole valve and replace it with a boiler drain valve. If The tank is located below the drain level then you will have to either pump or carry the drain water to the higher level. Replace the P/T valve and reinstall the associated associated piping. I would use tefelon tape on the P/T pipe theads. You may have to open a hot water faucet in order for the air to replace the water in the tank ,in order to drain.
SOURCE: Rheem 50 gallon gas water heater less than one
it could also be the dip tube. this is a tube that is installed at the time the unit is made.it is a plastic tube that is on the cold intake side of the hot water heater.it may have fallen inside the unit or may not be in the unit at all check to see if there is a plastic tube this will help the heater stay hotter for a longer period of time. good luck with your project.
SOURCE: I have a 41v50 gas 50 gallon hot water heater and
If it is leaking from the tank, you'll have to replace the heater.
SOURCE: I have a Rheem 40
When you say drain valve, do you mean TP valve?
Two different things: -drain valve and -TP valve
-Drain valve is located near bottom of tank and has hose thread on end.
-TP valve is brass and is located on side of tank tank near top on , and has a pipe that runs down within 6" of floor, or pipe goes into a drain pipe. DO NOT CAP OFF TP VALVE because this is safety outlet that prevents extremely hot water from rupturing tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
1) If drain valve located near bottom of tank is leaking, it can be capped with a garden hose cap from hardware store-home center. Thread cap on end of drain valve.
2) If TP valve is leaking.
a)Turn down thermostats on water heater
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html
b)Replace TP valve
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html
c) Install expansion tank on incoming cold water line
Buy expansion tank at hardware-home center-plumbing supply and tee straight out from cold water line and attach expansion tank. About the size of small football.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Expansion-Tank-1-82.jpg
4) Mythbusters blows up a water heater for your enjoyment U-tube
Video shows that extraordinary pressure is needed to blow up heater.
This event has only been reported once in past 10 years that I have read, and it blew out side of home. Stats for this type event don't exist in insurance company records, so you are safe - just don't cap off TP valve.
5) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
SOURCE: This Rheem gas water heater
Provided that there aren't other issues with your heater, changing the t&p may be enough. I say this as they generally do not just fail on their own, but rather, something has caused it to operate. This is either caused by temperature or pressure. Without knowing the age of your heater, it is a bit difficult to advise you as to replace or repair the heater. If you are comfortable that your's has more useful life in it, you can replace the t&p valve. If the expected life of the heater has been reached, you may wish to replace the unit.
To Replace the T&P Valve: Shut off the gas, and close the water inlet valve. Drain the tank down. The best way is to attach a hose to the boiler drain and route it to the outside. This also will help remove silt and sludge that can build up in water heaters, and extend the life of your tank. You will need to take an air bleed to allow the tank to drain. You can do this by lifting the lever on the t&p valve and by opening one of the hot water valves that you heater provides water to. You should hear air being pulled into the heater as the water drains.
There is a tag on your valve. When you remove your t&p valve, take it to the hardware store with you, tag and all. Get an exact replacement, and install according to the directions.
Before you pressure the heater back up, flush water through it through the still open drain. This will stir up and flush out any remaining sediment.
Close the drain, but leave the hot water valve that you opened earlier open, as the tank fills, the air will be expelled down the line. Fill the heater completely, then re-light the heater.
Best regards, --W/D--. Feel free to rate this solution.
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