Flood light has faint glow at all time

putting the switches on test bypasses all the sensors leaving the light on all the time the test selection is only there to see if the light is working

Which kind of flood lights? Long time lighting during whole night or security lighting sensitive to people walking across.

If it is for long time lighting, you should select the fixture lighting source as compact fluorescent, led or small wattage HID lamps, this kind of fixture you do not have priority requirement for instant on, the following fixture is just for reference.

http://www.bulbspro.com/vista-10040-35w-hps-wall-fixture-w-photoelectric-eye-bronze.html

For security purpose, you need the flood light right away reach full brightness, normally you take following fixture with halogen bulbs.

http://www.bulbspro.com/vista-10031-motion-sensor-twin-light-control-kit-white.html

Good luck!

If there is a "sensitivity" setting, it appears to be sett too sensitive, therefore the unit thinks there is constant motion.

What sort of lights?

Are they the "motion-detector" outdoor flood-lights?
If so, adjust the "sensitivity" dials on the unit.

your multi function switch is non responsive it will need to be replaced.

There are different selections on a flood light that you have to adjust. It is possible the you have it in test mode right now and when you flip the switch you are sending powering to the flood and it will stay on because it is in test mode. If it is not in test mode and you have it in the normal operation mode you may have the sensitivity set to high. If there are bushes near, running water, or anything that is moving quite a bit all the time it's going to stay on. Also, depending upon how old the flood is. It may simply need replacing. I would check the first two items and go from there. If you become completely stumped, a good electrician should be able to problem solve this very quickly. I have been on a few service calls where simply the flood was bad and needed to be replaced. I hope this helps.

HI, i would try to isolate this drain. once isolated, it will be easier to repair.

Here is the procedure I use to isolate a battery drain. Remove negative battery cable from the battery. Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected. The test light will glow or "light" if there is a drain. If the "light or glow" is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer. If the "light or glow" is bright, then there is a large drain. That should be corrected. Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain. Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.

I think this is by design. Look at the instruction manual and it should tell you. This doesn't make sense that they should be on, but they may have a reason for it in their design. Now to the bulb saver technology thought, you are mostly right here. There is a lot of "strain" if you will on the filament when starting it up and it does cause a weakening over time. You will notice that when a bulb goes out, it usually happens right when you turn it on. The same thought here. I suppose in this device, that a constant voltage (low) is better and more efficient than zero voltage to 120 volts. They probably take into account the sensor will be used several times a day thus making the need for this kind of set up even more demanding.