Yes their is one other thing you can try, you are right about the timers!, but i don't believe this is your problem! sounds to me you have a bad HIGH limit switch , you see these switches are used to protect the heating element's from becoming to hot and when they do become hot they act like a thermostat and open their self till things cool down and then they re close and let the electricity go on to the heating element, their may be two, you can find them inside the dryer around the drum, when you remove the outer dryer housing and locate these limits, get a continuity tester, make sure the power is off, and see if you have continuity between the two terminals on the limit, their should only be two wires attached to these limits,if their is no continuity replace them. things that make these go bad is, not cleaning the filter after each use and a stoped up or almost stoped up vent. hope we helped and good luck to u..
Did you check to make sure you didnt blow one ckt breaker and one is still hot? happened to me once and it was only runnin on 110...still turns the drum but no heat. good luck hope to help
The solid red wire comes from the motor not the timer.
The motor has to be running to test power at the heater.
Could be timer or motor switch.check all connections and terminal ends to make sure they are in good shape.but both are costly.i would check breaker flip it on and off and see if it works.they will run whe breaker trips but wont heat.also you can turn breaker off and take cover off to make sure all connections are good.take cover off end that electrical cord and make sure all connections are good.that is about all other options.good luck
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Model# GEQ9800LG0
I have checked all of the wires going to the heating element as suggested by a local dealer. I did not get and voltage out of the upper wire when removed from the unit. I was told to check them while they were still attached would give me a false reading since they are both attached.
The lower wire shows no reading on my volt meter. I tried the breakers after I changed the fuse. Does the lower(solid red) wire indicate the timer??
The one that is directly connected to the heating element
1. Verify 220 volts at the terminal block where the cord attaches.
2. Verify 110v from each leg to neutral at the terminal block.
3. Inspect all wires at the terminal block for a broken or burned wire.
4. With all wires attached to their corresponding parts do the following;
open the bottom panel of the dryer.
turn the timer to a time dry heat setting.
start the dryer.
with the volt meter set to 220 plus volts.
touch each meter lead to the dryer heater terminals.
If no voltage is read, do the following.
Unplug the dryer.
Set the volt meter for continuity.
Pull the 2 wires off the heater.
touch one meter lead to one heater terminal, touch the other meter lead to the other terminal.
If you get a reading...good.
then touch one lead to a heater terminal and the other lead to the heater canister.
then touch the other heater terminal and the canister.
if you get a continuity reading on either...the heater is bad.
replace the heater wires to the heater.
On the left side of the heater canister...unplug the thermostat wires.
touch the meter leads to the 2 thermostat terminals.
no reading...bad thermostat.
a reading is a good thermostat.
replace the thermostat wires.
just behind the thermostat is the thermal fuse.
remove both wires from the thermal fuse.
touch the meter leads to the 2 thermal fuse terminals.
no reading is bad.
a reading is good.
after you complete these test, get back to me for the next step.
What is your model number and exactly what have you checked and how did you check it?
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