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Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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Washer not cleaning grease off dishes

I checked the heating element and it registers 0 ohms. Is it good?

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  • Master 1,314 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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Joined: Dec 28, 2007
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Try this most common mistake made is not getting hot water to the washer on the first wash don't care what brand hot water cleans dishes 130-136 best but you have to bring the hot water to the washer before you start it some lines can run a half gallon to the sink before the hot gets there run the water at the faucet till its so hot you cant stand it then start the washer 0 ohms ok

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1helpful
1answer

Dishwasher is not heating water and wont dry dishes.

Hi

The water is not heating as the heating element has gone bad or a fuse has blown which is preventing heating element to turn on. To check the heating element you'll need to turn off the dishwasher, unplug it. After unplugging it check the heating element for mineral deposit on it, clean the deposits using a soft brush and a cleaning solution (Don't scrub the element hard). If this doesn't resolves the issue then remove the panel and examine all the wiring connections to the heating element. Now, use a multimeter and check for the resistance reading (ohms, Rx1) for the heating element. The multimeter should display between 1200-1600 ohms or 1.2K ohms. If it is less than 1200 then you'll need to get the heating element replaced. Also, check for any blown fuse around the element. This should resolve your issue. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.

Daniel
Jan 01, 2011 • Dishwashers
1helpful
1answer

F05

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

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0helpful
1answer

Dryer not generating adequate heat. needing multiple cycles to dry. cleaned out the vent but no improvement. heating element??

I would check heating element also on the heating element box is a thermostat probably need to check that also take the wires off the heating element and use an ohm meter to check it out it should register and not go to infinity. Same for the heating thermostat.
1helpful
1answer

What does F5 mean?

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
1helpful
1answer

What does the error code F05 mean on the HE 4t front-loading washer?

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
0helpful
1answer

What is the F05 error code for on my Kenmore elite he 4t washer

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
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Loud squealing,and hanging burnt wire off of heating element

Sometimes, there is a flaw in the wiring from the factory where the wire came from or at the manufacturer. Sometimes this is caused by "work hardening" the wire. This is where the wire is worked back and forth until it breaks or becomes weak. This is usually the cause when the wire breaks further up the wire.
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Whirlpool dryer LER5656EZ3 no heat

If the heating element read 0 ohms with the wires removed, you have an open heating element, (should be around 10 ohms) replace heating element and you should be ready to rock.
Sep 13, 2008 • Dryers
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Hot Water Heater Trouble

(1)Have the unit check for electric voltage to the element
If voltage going to the element and no heating
(2)Your heating element may be defective.
(3) Have it replace by qualified personel
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Dishwasher Heating element not working

rclay How old is your dish washer? It has up to five years limited (parts only) warranty on the electronic control. If it is within this period of time, then you can call Maytag and they will send you a new part. If you are not sure how old is it, you can find it with Maytag by the model and the serial numbers (on the door frame). The warranty for your dish washer you can get here: http://www.maytag.com/cust_serv/pdf_use_care_manual/6_915728.pdf Gendos...post back
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