Disassemblefreud ft2000 how to remove armature

Canada eh?
Question edited to add 'make model (what it is)
Question moved from Computers and Internet to Freud Tools.

Available on Amazon.ca but out of stock. They are only available on eBay, UK version

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302438101184

Original Carbon Brushes Freud Casals 1423 Router ...

https://www.amazon.ca > Original-Carbon-Brushes-Casa...
Original Carbon Brushes Freud Casals 1423 Router FT2000 FT2000VC FT2000 (1 PAIR) BS2G : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement.

Available on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302438101184

Lots here that LOOK the same. Buy by SIZE and FITTING

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If you have a shot armature then it will spark a lot where the brushes are touching the armature comulator. To remove the armature:1 Remove brushes. 2 Remove 4 screws holding the gear box. 3 Pull away gear box from the body. The armature may come with the gear box or not, it's only pushed in, so you should have no problem to disassemble it. If the armature stay in the grinder, use two skrew drivers to pray it out. You may not see anythink wrong with it, but it may be no good .


If my information helped you plz give me markings. Thanks

Armature should just pull out. Try holding the armature and tapping the main housing with a soft mallet.
Drawing http://www.milwaukeetool.com/PartsAndService/DownloadManuals/PartsWiring.aspx?ProductId=6180

usually there is a screw in the diaphragm to hold that assembly tight. You need to remove the brushes first and you might need to GENTLY pry the diaphragm from the motor housing. Then using a soft blow hammer tap the armature out of the plate. I would recommend replacing the bearings and brushes when doing the armature. Let me know if you need more assistance.

No the armature gear is made as part of it. the intermediate gear is replaceable but you need a press. to remove the armature first unplug tool and remove brushes, then remove the 4 screws that hold the gear housing to the motor housing and pull out. the intermediate gear is pressed onto the shaft.. Let me know if you need more assistance before voting and thank you

you have to pull on it to remove it or
use a punch and hammer on the end of armature(gear side)be careful to not damage teeth if you want to reuse it

a new collet won't hurt, but you may try sanding down the inside of your existing collet with 120 - 180 grit sandpaper. also, buff down the router bits

any condensation or moisture that may have gotten on these items can cause almost invisible oxidation that you can remove easily by sanding. DO NOT USE WD40!!!

It sounds to me like you have a swollen field and/or armature. What happens in a situation like this is the armature swells after getting started. There is probably a short in either the armature or field or both which is causing the overheating. Once the armature heats a lot it gets stuck in the field. After cooling down it has contracted a little and will move. A good way to see if it is the problem is to remove the motor. Take the brushes out, remove the motor cover and try to remove the armature. If the field and armature have been swollen you will have a very hard time removing the armature, it should just slide out. Usually the plastic sheathing in the field will curl over preventing the removal of the armature. Look for burn marks on the armature and for blown comm bar connections. The armature alone for your model is $160 and the field is $87. It would be worth your while to replace these if they are the problem, along with new brushes and brush tubes. That is unless your housing is damaged due to excessive overheating. In this case you will have to puchase the whole motor which is $406. Post back if you have any questions.

If, by coil, you are referring to the ignition armature and since you didn't specify what brand of engine you have I will give you instructions for Briggs: ((The instructions are similar with MOST engines with a few variances.))

Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug, remove the blower housing from the top of the engine (That is the half round/half square metal cover on top of your engine, this will give you access to the ignition armature:

Installing And Adjusting A New Ignition Armature

An ignition armature must be set at a precise distance from the flywheel. Ask your Briggs & Stratton Authorized Dealer or consult our Engine Check Chart for the proper gap for your engine. Common armature gap ranges are .006- .010" and .010 - .014". Armatures are often packaged with a shim to assist in setting the gap. Microfiche or index cards of the proper thickness also work well.

1. Remove the old ignition armature mounting screws (image A). Then, disconnect the stop switch wire from the flywheel brake and remove the armature.
   
2. Attach a replacement armature from the original engine manufacturer, using mounting screws (image A). Then, push the armature away from the flywheel and tighten one screw (image B).
   
3. Turn the flywheel so the magnets are on the opposite side from the ignition armature (image C).
   
4. Place the appropriate shim between the rim of the flywheel and the ignition armature. While holding the shim, turn the flywheel until the magnets are directly adjacent to the armature (image D).
   
5. Loosen the tight screw so the magnets pull the ignition armature against the flywheel and shim. Then, tighten both mounting screws and rotate the flywheel until the shim slips free.

If the armature is shot, it will spark a lot where the brushes are touching the armature comutator. To remove the armature:1 Remove brushes. 2 Remove 4 screws holding the gear box. 3 Pull away gear box from the body. The armature may come with the gear box or not, it's only pushed in, so you should have no problem to disassemble it. If the armature stay in the grinder, use two skrew drivers to pray it out. You may not see anythink wrong with it, but it may be no good . That's Makita special, they don't make it good as they used to. The price for new grinder is about $130, for armature $65. field $40