Heated hand grips

PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT YES TRANSPONDER SEE NOTES 12 VOLTS Yellow Ignition harness IGNITION RED / green Ignition harness IGNITION 2 Blue/green This wire is only required on the V-10 Gas engine. ACCESSORY RED / black Ignition harness ACCESSORY 2 Gray / YELLOW Ignition harness STARTER Dk.green Ignition harness KEY SENSE BLACK/ pink In airbag plug on right side of st. column TACH SIGNAL Use an injector DIESEL TACH SIGNAL GREEN / WHITE SEE NOTES Look below the relay box under the dash for a large loomed harness. There are some wires taped to the harness terminated with heat shrink tubing. You will find the GREEN / WHITE among these wires. LOCK WHITE/ red In harness above gas pedal On 4 door models, these wire are negative trigger. Vehicles with no keyless entry, colors are Pink / YELLOW for lock and Pink/green for unlock in 5-wire reverse polarity. They will be found in either kickpanel. UNLOCK BLACK/ white In harness above gas pedal On 4 door models, these wire are negative trigger. Vehicles with no keyless entry, colors are Pink / YELLOW for lock and Pink/green for unlock in 5-wire reverse polarity. They will be found in either kickpanel. DRIVER LOCK MOTOR Pink/black In harness above gas pedal DRIVER UNLOCK MOTOR RED / orange In harness above gas pedal PASSENGER UNLOCK MOTOR Pink/orange In harness above gas pedal GLO-PLUG SIGNAL DATA ONLY USE DELAY TIMER DOORPIN BLACK/ blue Above parking brake in DKP The vehicle's computer sends out diagnostic pulses on this wire every 15-20 minutes. This may cause an after-market alarm to false. It is suggested that you add a relay to this wire when connecting to an alarm system. See the appropriate diagram for exact wiring instructions. FACTORY ARM Yellow/black Above parking brake in DKP This is the driver's doorpin wire. Pulse this wire at the same time as lock to arm the factory alarm. FACTORY DISARM Dk.GREEN/ purple In harness above gas pedal BRAKESWITCH Green At switch above brake pedal PARKLIGHTS Brown At light switch harness HAND BRAKE Lt.GREEN/ red At plug above handbrake lever HORN Dk.blue In airbag plug on right side of st. column

Jason, I posted a trouble shooting link that explains how to test.
press the helpful button
HOT GRIPS heated grips hand warmers grip warmers

the only 2 wires you dont want to cross are red and black . once you have red from radio red from harness, black from radio black from harness connected it should light up ..the speaker wires can be "trial and error" . if red and black together dosent light it up check the fuse on the radio and on incoming red wire. try bringing 2 wires straight from the battery with a fuse between the red one to radio,if it dosent light up then with "direct power " then the radio needs to come apart to see ether internal fuse or burnt our circuit. ps: sometimes you only need to connect the red "live" wire and touch the black on the casing of the radio to test for life.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10

REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.

INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)

Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.

If you remove the pass switch on the left hand switch housing you have room to fit the round rocker switch in the his housing. This makes for a very clean installation. Since in the day time I ride with high beams on the pass switch was of know use to me plus flashing your high beams at a car you intend to over take seems to produce a rather random out come. I traced out the diameter of hole I would need with a scribe and then trimmed it out with a Dremel, test fitting the switch as I went. Much safer then trying to drill a hole that large in a piece of plastic.

Left Side


Right Side



The empty three wire plug under the nose fairing is intended for the factory heated grips. I cut of the plug and wired into the power here. There are three wires, 12v hot, 12v signal, & Ground. The 12v hot use the fuse in the fuse box marked for the heated grips but remains hot even when the bike is off. So I wired in a 12v relay using the signal wire to switch the 12v hot with the ignition. This will prevent dead batteries if I leave the heated grips on or if a passer by feels the need to flip switches on my bike; it's happed before! You will be able to tell which is the 12v hot and 12v signal by pulling the heated grip fuse and seeing which wire remains hot.

Relay

hope this helps

John

this is untrue if the grips are oxford hot grips they should wire str8 to the battery with the red live and black earth ringlet terminal gd luck

The harley heated handgrips are notorious for failing.  Some people have reported finding a loose connection on the ground wire, like they did not crimp the terminal on the end of the wire at the factory.  If they are wired externally of the bars (almost impossible to wire those any other way) then it should be easy to follow the wire down to inside the headlight bucket or in the nacelle or dash, (depending on what model bike) and check the connections.  If both grips quit at the same time then it's probably wiring.  If one quit first, then it may be the grip itself.
If you need to replace them, I would highly recommend not buying the HD brand anymore, and instead choose Polly grip heaters.  They are made for snowmobiles and have a long list of benefits over the HD type: - fits internally in the bar end, so you can use any grips you want - cost $35!!  compared to $250 for HD - easy to install
I have installed over 7 sets in my friends bikes and not one single failure.

any strait black wire or a good chassis ground.