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Posted on Mar 06, 2009

I have a hanimex sekonic light meter but have the instuction manuel

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Armond Gagliardi

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  • Posted on Mar 06, 2009
Armond Gagliardi
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Http://www.sekonic.co.jp/English/product/meter/download.shtml

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Is it possible to take apart & clean a Hanimex 72-162mm lens? If so, how?

Is it possible yes, is it recommended no. Lenses are full of little tiny precise parts that are difficult to assemble. The smuges you see are probably mildew. This will eat into the coating on the lens. Hanimex was a an importer based in Australia. They did not manufacture lenses themselves. I have used many legacy lenses on Olympus cameras, Hanimex and others. As a general rule I found these lenses did OK as a macro but only average in general use.
Sep 22, 2014 • Cameras
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It may be permanently damaged. However you can try this - pack it in a bag of uncooked white rice and leave it there for a few days. Uncooked rice is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture from the immediate surroundings.
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Sekonic L-328 doesn't turn on sometimes

I encountered the same problem, and here is my solution. First take the back cover off, it is held by 3 screws: 2 in battery compartment and one under blue Sekonic logo (pry it off). You'll see power/analog board. In my meter a 220 uF capacitor at the battery input has leaked and polluted the board. Here is what it looked like with capacitor removed:

original-dkpyl34n5sjxhwpivritshbs-5-0_1.jpg

I removed the following elements and cleaned the board thoroughly. I cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol or acetone will be fine too. Picture shows cleaned and reassembled board. IC1 and T1 were placed back after cleaning. Other elements were replaced with new ones.

top-dkpyl34n5sjxhwpivritshbs-5-2.jpg

Element values: R1 - 91K, R2 - 510K, R3 - 100K, C2 - 47 nF X7R, all 0805 size.
On the other side the board also needed some cleaning. I removed C1 and VT1 and cleaned with alcohol. VT1 was placed back. C1 was replaced with new one, 10 nF NP0 or X7R type, 0805 size. Defective 220 uF 4V capacitor was replaced with 220 uF 6.3V tantalum capacitor, C size.

bottom-dkpyl34n5sjxhwpivritshbs-5-5.jpg

Assemble the meter back. After that device works perfectly.
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Instuctional manuel for canon printer mp620

You may download the manual and more from here.
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I use the settings recommended by my L358. However, when I set my camera to those settings in manual mode, my photos are dark. Why is this happening?

The fault is either with your camera/lens or with the meter itself. Try the meter with another camera, if the exposure error is still present then check that the custom compensation feature on your meter has not been set by mistake (page 26 of the user manual). If this doesn't cure the fault then try fitting a new CR123A battery. If the fault still remains then you can either compensate for the error by always using a longer shutter speed/wider aperture than recommended or you will need to send the meter for servicing.

Good luck, and please take a moment to rate my answer.
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How do I program? I lost the instuctions.

You didn't mention the specific model of your timer, but here's a link to a manual that I hope will work for you:

http://www.aubetech.com/manuel/2/TI032.pdf
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L-358 light meter doesn't change modes

Most probably the switch under the Mode button went faulty. Try to operate the button many times, sometimes it helps, if the culprit is corrosion or small debris inside the switch. If not, have the meter repaired at Seconic.
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Sekonic L-358 light meter will not trigger my photogenic lights anymore? Thanks, Liz

Hi Liz

have you checked your sync cable?
tried meter on another system (for comparison)?

Depends where you are.. Mamiya in the USA can solve the problem.
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Meter is consistently a half to a full stop off

I've known this problem to occur if the wrong kind of CR123/CR123A lithium battery is used. They come as rechargeable and dry cell (i.e. non-rechargeable) versions. For sensitive devices like yours the difference is important as the internal resistance of the rechargeables is lower which affects the voltage characteristics.This meter is designed only for the dry cell version: see page 34 of the user manual, although the instructions don't make this fact clear enough IMHO. The reason for using the dry cell version is that the output voltage remains constant until the battery is nearly exhausted, but the rechargeable version starts at a slightly higher than nominally rated voltage and drifts down as the battery discharges. This means that you only get a truly accurate reading with a dry cell battery. There is no user adjustment to recalibrate the meter but you can use a different ISO rating to compensate or use the exposure compensation settings.
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