Question about Philips 50MF231D 50 in. Plasma Television
I purchased my TV two years ago during the summer of '07. I was very satisfied and I've had no complaints until about 1 month ago when I noticed my TV was behaving different from usual.
Whenever I powered it on, the TV typically clicks twice (the clicks were always about a second apart), then I immediately would hear a slight buzz, and then the picture and sound comes on.
But last month when I pressed the power button on the remote, the picture would take longer and longer to come on. I followed the advice of others and would unplug and plug it back in. I would do this for about 10 mins until finally, I hear that slight ''buzz'' and usually the sound comes first, and then the picture. I would have to do this each time I powered on the TV, until one day when I tried to turn it On, it clicked only ONCE! I left it On and plugged in for about an hour and nothing. No sound, No picture, just the little green light in the corner.
I unscrewed the back and checked out the center power supply board and what do you know, found the two slightly bulged capacitors standing side by side. I removed the board, took it to a professional and had them replaced with 3300uf 50v caps and was charged $50. Now I'm back home, set my TV up again, and when I plug it in, STILL, only one click. No picture and No sound. But before I screwed on the back of the TV panel, I noticed that on the power supply board, when I plug in the power cord, there are two green led bulbs about 1 inch apart. Only the left LED green bulb clicks and lights up once plugged in, but the right side green LED bulb does not click or light up.
PLEASE, SOMEONE TELL ME HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM!!!! I DON'T KNOW WHERE ELSE TO TURN!
Should have been 3300 UF 10V caps that were bad? Shouls have been replaced with 3300UF 18V. 50V is huge. If it was replaced with a 50 the polarity may be wrong or the cap it too big to be seated property. Sometimes the caps just dry out and even a normal looking one will be the culprit of no OSD. Are you getting an LED fault code blinking? That should be a red led. Do you hear the relay clicking.? When you replaced the caps did you charge them? Just plugging in the set without trying to power it on for about 20-30 mins. I may be able to help you
Posted on May 08, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
replacing the 10V caps with 25V caps is perfectly fine. In fact, if it was manufactured like that, those caps may not have blown.
Replacing a 680uF with a 1000uF could be problematic depending on it's function.
680uF is pretty specific when 500uF and 1000uF are much more common and therefore cheaper - one would think that the engineers would have tried using those in the design rather than a 680uF - makes me think the value of the cap is important to the frequency of the circuit it's in.
Other concerns might be whether he got any of them in backwards or not.
That's a rookie mistake, but still an easy enough one to make (for a rookie).
Also, with that many swollen caps, I wonder if there were any that leaked out the bottom before swelling at the top (IE - if some caps were missed in the replacement procedure)
Also, with that large a number of caps gone, other components may have been compromised or blown.
I'd be testing the transistors around those caps (most likely punched through rather than open), looking for fusible links (surface mount fuses, 0 OHM resistors) that may have opened up etc.
The initial attack on the problem was basically correct, and in many cases probably would have fixed it (if say the 680uF cap was functioning as a ripple filter).
But when that didn't fix it, a deeper analysis should have been done to complete the repair (including locating a 680uF cap).
Posted on Feb 27, 2011
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