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What is the speaker load in Ohms that you are running? Or what exactly is hooked up to it? are you bridging it? The protection light will come on if the load is too much for the amp to handel. If the load (in Ohms) is less than the rated load that it can run, it will stop the output to keep the amp from self destructing. The amp will sense that the demand for power will be too high for the amps circuitry which will either make the amp get so hot that it will burn up the copper on the board or more likely burn up the power mosfetts that power the speakers. If the Ohms are within range then it will allow power to flow through the circuit until the rails that the mosfetts are bound to until they get so hot that it will go into thermal protection. So if your amp has both thermal and overload protection lights and the overload is light then the load is probably too much for the amp. if it's bridged in mono the you can only have 1 speaker setup hooked up it if it's a 2 channel amp. a 4 channel amp bridged in mono for both front and rear channels will be able to have 2 speakers rated a 4 ohms each hooked up to the amp 1 set per bridged output or channel. Try it running in stereo with only 1 speaker per channel and see if it will produce sound. If not then you have an amp that has internal problems and will need to be serviced. Check your warranty to see if you are covered.
It could be even simpler than that, yes an improper impedance rating on an amp will cause it to overheat, but should function temporarily until it reaches peak temp. If the outputs were blown the protect light should not light up being that they would need to work to cause the protect light to come on. I would double check all of your connections, one small little crossed wire would cause an amp to immediately go into a protect mode.
I don't know how you checked the fuses but if you didn't use an ohm meter, you need to confirm that you have B+ and remote at the amplifier.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage is sufficient at the remote and B+ terminals, the switching power supply has probably failed in the amplifier.
You didn't say how long it ran before it quite and I assume the red light you are refering to is the protection circuit engaged light and not the power on light. But from the info you did provide, I'd say that it sounds like you may have blown some of the main output transistors/MOSFET's. If so, it's time for a trip to the repair shop. Sorry, for the bad news. If just turning your car on caused the outputs to fry, then I wouldn't be surprised to find that you have either bridged the speakers wrong or by some means you have put the wrong speaker load on the outputs. Ask someone who knows what they are doing, if you have your speaker loading correct. This person might not be a car stereo installer as sometimes they don't know how to load an amp correctly, especilly when it comes to bridging. Good luck.
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