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Anonymous Posted on Apr 03, 2013

My whirlpool microwave/oven combo is displaying a "DOOR" error message, and the microwave won't work. I have replaced a 20a bus fuse and all 3 door micro switches... It is still displaying the "DOOR"

My whirlpool microwave/oven combo is displaying a "DOOR" error message, and the microwave won't work. I have replaced a 20a bus fuse and all 3 door micro switches... It is still displaying the "DOOR" message... What else could it be??

  • Robert Struzinski Apr 04, 2013

    If you do get it working we used to do a leakage test to the doors by using a small flourescent tube light I'm not sure what voltage it was maybe a 6 or 12 volt and run it along the edges of the door seal to see if it was leaking radiation. The light will glow if it is. Also to sse if the motor was working properly other than heating water, The guy I worked for would put the bulb inside of it for a second and it would light up, I guess he was testing the bulb to make sure it was good.

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Robert Struzinski

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  • Posted on Apr 03, 2013
Robert Struzinski
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When microwaves first got popular I used to be a helper with my next door neighbor who fixed them. I does sound like you should have covered it with those switches. If you close the door very slowly, pulling back on the door see if you can hear all 3 switches clicking. You should be able to hear them easily. If you only hear the first 2 try pushing on the door to hear the 3rd. If it will click with pressure on the corners or in the middle then you door is tweaked, possibly from pulling on the door hard to open it or smacking into something on the edge. If you can hear all 3 switches and it still wont start then its going to be the sensor that receives the signal from the switches. I'm not sure how accessible those are on today's models since they make them as disposables now, back then they cost around $500 so they were serviced.

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  • Anonymous Apr 03, 2013

    I can physically see that all of the switches are being activated when the door is closed... I have my oven almost completely dismantled.... Whirlpool emailed me an exploded view of the parts and I do not see any type of sensor that might be the cause... At this point I am stumped... I have only had the thing for almost 3 years and am sick to my stomach that consumers are expected to pay that kind of money for products that are only backed by a year warranty... My grandma still has her original appliances from the 60's and they still work!!!

  • Robert Struzinski Apr 04, 2013

    I learned on the Amana RadarRanges, we used to buy the old TV dinners that were in the tin foil trays for lunch and peel off the tin foil put them back into the original outer box and cook them with out any problems!

  • Robert Struzinski Apr 04, 2013

    You say you can see them, but cam you hear them all clicking? they may look closed but may not be actually flipping closed that's why I asked if you push on the door if it will start. Also have you tried it with the cover back in place? It may not work till the cover is back on. Also unplug it for a while and then retry it. The new ones probably have more safety features than the 1970's models did.

  • Robert Struzinski Apr 04, 2013

    That cover may need to be on to complete a ground circuit loop as a safety feature, many electronics items have this built into them, they used to have switches on panel to complete the circuits. You can also try a jumper wire fron panel to panel but replacing it will probably be better.

  • Anonymous Apr 04, 2013

    Ugh.... So you are saying that I have to reassemble the whole thing (at least 60 small screws, and 6 deferent metal shields and panels) because it might not be properly grounded! Hahaha... I have tried unplugging it, unplugging all connectors to the control panel, I guess I'm left to put it all back together and see if that does anything.... I have a certified repair tech coming out Friday... in order to soften the blow financially I left it open so he didn't have to spend the time dismantling it.... I don't think I can take the frustration of putting it back together and it still not working... With every new part I installed I was sure that it would work.... I've pretty much given up! But thanks for the help...

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5 Related Answers

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 25, 2007

SOURCE: Ikea micro wave whirlpool

F3 usually means a keypad or temperature sensor / thermistor problem.

The fact that you can't use the microwave leads me to believe it's a keypad or control circuit board problem.

If you have the owner's manual that came with the unit, I would suggest you look there for a contact numer to call for service.

Otherwise I would suggest calling the store from which you purchased it.

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

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Anonymous

  • 19 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 06, 2008

SOURCE: Ge Spacemaker microwave jvm240 wv Micro hood combo.

sounds to me like the magnatron has shorted out. i don't know of a way to test them unless you have some high dollar equipment. a continuity test prob wont tell you anything. what reading did you get on the cap when you tested it?

douglas smith

  • 1462 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 05, 2008

SOURCE: microwave blowing fuses when setting programme

suspect high tension diode or bleed diode faulty. easy to replace but!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BE CAREFUL. THERE ARE VERY HIGH VOLTAGES PRESENT IN A MICROWAVE. YOU MUST SHORT CIRCUIT THE CAPACITOR WITH A GOOD QUALITY SCREWDRIVER IE GOOD INSULATION. VOLTAGE CAN BE UP TO 1500 VOLTS AND IT CAN KILL.

IF YOU ARE NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, GET SOMEBODY IN

Anonymous

  • 86 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2008

SOURCE: Where is the 10 amp fuse on my delonghi micro/combo/grill please

Hi, I take it that this is a combi microwave? Some of these have settings on the front to microwave/grill/etc... so make sure its on the right one first!!
If you have selected the correct one then the m/wave does not work it could be several things!
Microwaves run to earth and need diodes to do this if these break down it will not m/wave! It could also be a internal fuse? ( but very unlikley if everything else works) Then you have the Mag or transformer which could be down to! M/waves run on a high power side and a low power side. The low power will not hurt you to much but the high power side will. My advice to uou is not to touch as it could be fatal as these things carry a high charge even when they are unplugged!

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 26, 2009

SOURCE: Microwave Oven Door Spring Replacement

Remove the front panel by removing the screws located on the inside of the door (note hold door inplace, since it is heavy and will fall out after screws removed). Unscrew screws located on bottom of plastic retainer (2 each) Remove tension spring. Note 2 are included right and left. Note color of spring on end, different springs for different door types, stainless, black,beige or white. Replace all in reverse order.

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