Wiring to a 3 single pole combination switch

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-Heavy-Duty-Grade-15-Amp-Combination-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-and-Pilot-Light-Ivory-277V-BOX/203492442

I f you intend to run one light with two switches you should opt for 3 way switches. the wiring diagram is usually inside the box if you by them boxed.

Hi *****,

I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem. First - shut off the power. Check your wiring as I describe the connections below.

If this is the only switch operating the fan and light, it should be wired as a single pole in the direction sheet. That is as follows:

1) one black wire - it should be connected to the "hot" power source, 2) one green wire - it should be connected to the bare / green ground wires & switchbox (if metal), 3) one red wire - it should be connected to the fan hot wire, 4) one yellow wire - it should be connected to the light hot wire, the remaining wires (yellow with a "3 way label" and red with a "3 way label") should not be connected to anything and capped with a wirenut.

The wiring changes if you are using a second switch to operate either the fan or light (download & view the wiring diagram provided here to follow along with my text). In this case, the hot wire from the fan or light would connect to the black screw of a standard 3 way switch, and the remaining two terminal screws on the switch would connect to the red / red with 3 way label - or yellow / yellow with 3 way label pair. Power and ground wiring on the dimmer black and green are the same as the single pole wiring described above.
I hope this helps & good luck!

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

Following image has basic wiring plan.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg

Each Load (light-or-fan) has to have separate wire running to switch box.
If night light is plugged into wall outlet, then a new wire will have to be added going to switch box.
Most night lights have built in photo eye, and on-off switch.

Add a comment for more help and include specific wiring and what you have tried so far.

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.

I don't think you can do what you are trying. The fan & light are on one circuit. Probably, originally, there was only a light fixture there. The fan/light is on a single circuit and the remote does the controlling of both units.
Now, you are trying to install a fan control and light dimmer but you don't have wiring for each separately.
You might be able to use one of the dimmer controls to adjust the output to the fan/light combination, but you can't control them individually, if I understand your wiring.
Gary

Here is a link to the instruction manual. Page three shows a wiring diagram for separate switches.
http://www.centralvacuumstores.com/meta/pdfs/info/744NT+Installation+Guide.pdf

This is the Switch NuTone Broan recommends for that fan.
http://broan.com/display/router.asp?ProductID=2949

Found a .pdf file that shows LSDC163pwv ... it does not show wiring for LSDC. It shows wiring for other 3-way dimmers & separate wiring for 3-way fan control. This is a clue.

The Pass and Seymour download page does not load, so I can't see specific manual.

Let me provide what I know:
-Instructions might be confusing because LSDC works for both single-pole and 3-way circuits ... which probably adds a lot of extra wording in manual
-LSDC Device has single-pole/3-way dimmer (this requires 3 wires)
-Device has single-pole/3-way fan control with 3 speeds (which requires 3 wires)
-That's 6 total wires
-If I understand correctly, you just want to control a ceiling light? -And you do not have a fan? And your ceiling light is set up with 3-way switches.
-IF you are also wanting to control a fan in addition to the light, the box will need separate wires that go specifically to the fan >> your description shows that you do not have separate wires for the fan. Is this correct?
-Without separate wires to the fan, you can still control the light ... but if wires to light also turn the fan on-and-off, then the LSDC is not the right control since a dimmer for lights will not work on both fan and light.
To wire the light:
-You have identified black common wire for light (it is connected to dark-colored screw on 3-way switch)
-You have identified travelers that connect the 3-way switches
-The neutral wires seem to be twisted together at back of box.
-I think the dimmer is located on the top, and fan control is bottom?? Not 100% sure >>>
-Question: are there 3 wires that are associated with dimmer?
-If you can see 3 wires for dimmer, one of those wires should be black ... just hook that to common, and hook other 2 wires to travelers ... and see if it works. If not, keep connecting them until correct combination is found.

Tip- I read a lot of electrical part manuals, and when confused, I write out the instructions so it breaks down the information.

Very interesting problem! But easy to fix. It's not a defective switch, just a minor wiring error, which would be very hard to solve via back and forth text. So, instead of trying to figure out exactly which wires and terminals to swap at the new switch, it would be much easier to simply swap the light and fan wires at the ceiling fixture, I hope this is helpful. Good luck, Al Kupchella