Problem with a Dayton 6K342BD running hot and smoking. It's a brand new motor i put on an old horse walker, currently wired for 110 on low voltage. what did i do wrong?

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It should be a simple two wire 110 volt circuit. If it has a fan cycling switch on it, the hot wire goes into and out of the switch on the way to the motor while the neutral goes straight to the power source white wire. If no fan cycling switch, the two wires of the motor just wire to the cord plugging into the wall...(or wired directly into the 110 volt circuit in the wall outlet box.

I am not sure if this will help you out any, but here goes:
Line1 & Line 2 are your Hot Power Wires coming into the motor.
It does not really matter which wire goes to which post of the motor.
This will remain true if you are bringing in 110-115-120 (these are all the same, people just refer to them differently) which also is referred to at times as "Low" voltage, and the same goes for 220-230-240 (again, referred to differently) which is referred to at times as "High" voltage.
Whether bringing in Low voltage or High Voltage, the wires you bring in will number only three:

• Ground
• Hot
• Hot (potentially Hot)

Low Voltage (115) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire = Line 1. Normally Black
• 1 Potentially Hot Wire = Common/Nuetral Line 2, normally White
• Ground/Earth = Normally Green

High Voltage (220) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 1, Normally will be same color as Line 2 or Black/Red
• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 2, Normally will be same color as Line 1 or Red/Black
• Ground - Green

In either of the above voltages, it does not matter which wire goes where, as long as a Hot wire goes onto Line 1 and the other "Hot or Potentially Hot, if 110", goes onto Line 2. Do not put a Hot wire anywhere else and Do Not put a Ground wire on either Line 1 or 2!

Most Motors are coming out of the factory wired for High Voltage Set up (220), so you will have to move some wires or a terminal block, to set the motor to operate at "Low" voltage (115). These motors are "Dual" Voltage, they have the capability to run either 110 or 220. But they don't magically know which voltage is being supplied.

Good Luck

I reversed start winding to reverse motor now it runs the right direction but it keeps starting instead of running smooth

If the compressor is relatively new and performs well, it is probably not an issue. Brushes always spark on the commutator but without seeing the extent of the sparks it is hard to tell for certain if it is "too much" or not. I wouldn't expect any significant smoke from the brushes and commutator or the armature unless it is brand new and the oils from manufacturing are being burned off. If it is a very old machine, it is possible the armature is shorted out and needs to be replaced.

If, on the other hand, it is not brand new, but a couple years old, has had use, but not heavy and continuous and you just see small sparks coming from the brushes, then it is probably ok. If the sparks seem larger than what you are accustomed to and you are seeing smoke coming from the motor at all (presuming it is not the brand new situation noted above) then the armature may be starting to short out and/or the windings in the motor may be starting to burn out. Electric motors that are used within their design constraints (not overloaded, not run on low voltage, not run continuously if not designed for that use, not overheated) do not tend to burn out. However, if the windings get covered with sawdust (which insulates them), you run the compressor continuously for hours on end, day after day, especially in a hot environment and/or with low voltage, then you have probably overheated the windings and the motor is burning out. For a compressor of this size and quality, it would likely cost more to have the motor rewound than it cost to replace the compressor. Also, if it has failed from overly hard use, rewinding the motor will not prevent another burn-out, you need a larger, more durable compressor.

Do not try and reuse any of the damaged electrical. I buy a short extension cord of the appropriate gauge at HD and wire it to the switch and motor. Only disconnect one wire at a time .
Black is hot the screw color is brass, white is neutral and the screw color is shiny or chrome green is ground, it will be the plug prong that is at bottom of plug.

Look at the name plate on the motor. If it's 'duel voltage' it will show a 'high' and 'low' voltage hook up. If it only shows one hook up config, then use the rated voltage on the name plate. If 240 volts, use L1 and L2 for incoming power @ 240volts.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

The 2 brown wires to the cap in first legend is how they are wired electrically,inside that motor the run winding is common to that brown one they cappped off in the 2nd option, but the powers still going to Run.ommon and run get the juice either way, its just another way to do it, but electrically as to sides of power and where they go is no different, just different way to do it.you can run power in on the Run terminal on the run cap, the run winding and run cap and start cap if equipped are Run to Run to Run.So the hot leg for the run winding also goes to run on the caps, run to run to run.,run winding to run cap to run on start cap.