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More watts doesn't mean more loud but it gives you more headroom for cleaner reproduction of very loud passages. Distortion will kill a speaker faster than clean signals will.
When the fuses blow like that suspect an overload in either the power supply or main amp stages. I think you might have damaged one or more of the output devices. They can develop faults quick if you're using the wrong type speakers or have faulty wiring to them. The main cause of fuse blowing is a semi-conductor device that is acting like it is a piece of wire. For instance an output transistor when connected to a multi-meter on the ohm scale, will show a full scale deflection, just like if you had touch the two test probes together.
When the fuse keeps blowing you have an overload. The cause of which is either in the power supply or the main amp. It will almost for certain be a semi-conductor of some type acting like a piece of wire. A multi meter will show up a most faulty parts with this condition. On the Ohm setting applying the test probes to transistor terminals (E,C,B) you will get a responce like you had touch the probes together! The power transistors or whatever is on the heatsink are good at going short circuit, as people often short the speaker wires together.
Don't forget to check for burnt or damaged parts too.
As a rule of thumb with transistors when testing on a meter (1K setting) (best with moving coil scale meter than a digital) apply to base (B) and then to C & E you should get an ohms reading. If you don't get any reading (both ways) it's dead (open) and if the meter goes full scale - it's shorted.
Good question, well constructed, a real fault report.
I would say from you fault description that maybe there is a dry joint / loose connection somewhere in the system.
So check all your wiring / connections.
Put the amp back into 2 ch mode and check each ch with the same source and load, do it both cold, and then drive the amp and do it hot do the shake test on both ch, cold and hot.
maybe this will help id the faulty area, if both ch have fault the it might be the psu as this is common to both sides.
If you can track down the fault to a or b then you can resolder all the connections on the board, if you are not happy with taking the lid off then take your amp with your test report to a tech, the test results may save you time and money.
Hi... There's not alot of innerds on these amps. They use a TDA7294 amplifier chip in the 50 WPC version and I have one here with both outputs gone bad.
Is the amp already used for L R? If so, you either need another amp for center, or set your Sony for stereo mix down. I have mixed the center channel into my main LR in the past and found there were terrible phase cancellations, so I suggest you switch to Stereo, or use a separate amp.
If the amp has PreIn PreOut connections, then thats the best way to go. Home theatre amps however, have 5 InOuts, and this makes it hard. You can use the tape loop. Hook up the rec out on amp to inputs on EQ, and output of EQ to tape in an amp, then engage the tape monitor function whilst ensuring that the rec selector has the source you wish to use the EQ for.
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