Makita table saw switch wiring

Question edited.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks to model category.

Help in the link, including Makita spares.

https://www.google.com/search?q=makita+2703+dust+collection+bags

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Goto this link:

http://powertool.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/makita/2703.html

The instructions for adjusting the rip fence are on page 11

there is only one way that I know of. Unplug tool and lay on its backside to expose the undercarriage of tool, remove the screws holding the switch plate on and remove box

go to makita.com enter yr model # in the search bar, down load a parts breakdown, it should b there

you can buy the replacement handle from any makita dealer or repair center

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

i would say the table is twisted then, strip it down first and if you need to "bend!" it back so it works

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/images/Products/_PartsBreakdowns/PB_2703.pdf
http://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/images/Products/2703/owners_manuals/2703.pdf
Here are two links for the parts manual and the owners manual. It is not uncommon for a tool to go slightly out of line with use due to vibration and and movement of the arbor. As for the tool not tilting, it just sounds like the worm screw and gear are off line. this is a pretty quick fix but it requires you to turn your saw upside down to access the set screws. I glanced at the diagram and it looks like the handle for the adjustment is held on by a set pin. you will also be able to access this from inside the cabinet.

After much trial and error, a little smoke, and wrecking one replacement switch, I solved a similar problem with my Craftsman Cmpd Mitre saw. Different saw, but likely the same principles are involved.
If the switch is a double pole single throw switch, with one side normally open (N0) and the other normally closed (NC), and the saw has a separate wire for the brake, this will probably work.

One side of the switch should have contacts that are normally open (NO) and only connect when the switch is ON. The Hot (Black) wire from the plug connects to the wire on the machine side (red or maybe black) through this NO side. So, connect these two wires via this NO side and the saw will run when the switch is ON but will have no brake; so far so good.
There should be another wire (Not the neutral white) which is the brake wire. This gets connected to one of the connection sites of the Normally Closed (NC) side of the switch. From the other connection site of this NC side run a short "jumper" wire (of the same guage as the other wires) to the Machine Side of the NO side of the switch (same place as that Red or Black? wire above) .
What seems to happen is this:
There's no power to the machine or the brake when the switch is OFF. Turn it ON and power goes from Hot through the NO (now closed) side and the saw runs. The brake doesn't run when the saw runs because the NC switch is now open. Turn the switch OFF and the NC switch is in fact closed and power is transfered to the brake via the jumper wire from the still spinning armature which now acts as a generator (alternator?). Once the brake has done its job and the armature stops spinning there's no power anywhere until you turn the switch ON again.
Or at least that's the theory, and in my case it works; no more smoke.

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/images/Products/2703/owners_manuals/