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Hi, If you have a Farberware, Just look into the bottom of the pot. There you will see what looks like a hole in the pot. That is the high heating element, under the pot, when you go to make coffee the pump ( rod) sits into the hole. When you turn it on to make coffee the high heating element that the pump is in gets very hot and starts pushing the water that is in the hole to the top (that is called perking) the hot water goes over the the top and the drops into the coffee, This keeps going on until the thermostat feels it has reached 190 degrees or close to it and turns the high element off. While this is running it's cycle the keep warn is on helping the water to get hot, when the main element is off the keep warm element that runs around the bottom of the pot stays on all the time the pot is plugged in. Should the coffee get to cold the thermostat will turn the main heating element back on until it is back to 190. This system was developed by Farberware and a lot of makers copied it, But Farberware sold the pots and was known for a FAST and HOT cup of coffee. Farberware started making them in China and the pots are having a hard time keeping it up to American standers, and parts are very scarce.Farberware USA pots have been around a long,long time and are still going strong . I hope this helped you to understand how the pot works.
Heated mirrors have a swtch in the car. That operates the eliment that is stuck to the glass.This eliment heats the mirror when turned on.It is used to defrost or demist the mirror.A none heated mirror has no wires going to it and no eliment at the back off the glass.OK.
Could be a fuse..
Could be a heating eliment..
A way to check the eliment is -- remove the exuast hose.. Put a mirror to see inside the hole.. Whenrunning the eliment should glow hot..
Sounds like you use dryer sheets. If you do, try cleaning your lint screen with vinegar. Dryer sheets leave a film on the screen that the dryer eventually can't breathe through, the dryer overheats and burns up the elements.
Thanks for letting us know that there was no solution other than one I would have to come up with entirely on my own. My dad who is old school wouldn't let me give up so we took the thing apart and it was an easy fix. Take the 5/16 nut off the bottom. Pull the slide pins off the thermostat. Take the philips screw out of the support holding the thermostat in place. Use a sharp pointed knife and with the silver Aluminum cap flat on the bench, make a slice on one edge. Use the knife to pull the edge away from the plastic housing and the cap will pop off. Be careful not to loose the small piece of ceramic that lies in a small whole on top of the contact. Use a sharp knife to clean the contacts and check with an ohms meter or continuity light. If it makes a good contact, put it back together. It took my dad and me about 10 minutes to do the entire job. We looked for a part for 20 minutes. Good luck. Rick and Adam Schmitt of Maryland.
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