Removing crank from my K2 Razorback.

If you are using the proper tools to remove and replace the gear you don't need to worry about the crank turning. A gear puller will push against the end of the crank to pull the gear off, and an installer will push against the end of the crank.

Replacing the chain and gears requires removing the water pump, dropping the oil pan, removing the balancer and timing cover. Rotate the crank so the dots on the cam gear and crank gear line up at the 6 and 12 o clock positions respectively. Unbolt the cam gear and remove it and the chain. If you need to remove the crank gear you can use a three jaw puller or something similar to pull it off. Reinstall the crank gear lining up the gear with the keyway on the crank and press it on with the appropriate tool. Install the cam gear with the chain and make sure dots line up again. It may be necessary to remove the valve covers and rocker arms as well to rotate the cam shaft if need be.

Those look like standard three piece cranks. You need a special drank removal tool. The one made by Park Tools for pulling square taper cranks should work, CCP-22, they are about $15 at your local bike shop (LBS) or online. If you have Octalink or spline drive cranks they have a tool for that too.

The cranks are usually held in place with a 14 or 15 mm bolt or nut on square taper bottom brackets and you can use a regular ratchet and socket to remove these. Once removed, you thread in the crank removal tool (mentioned above) and then turn the handle until the crank comes off (this is very tight and takes a lot of "elbow grease" to turn the tool handle).

To remove your pedals, you can use a 15mm open end/box end wrench to remove them. Keep in mind that pedals thread into the cranks in the same direction on both sides, so in other words one side is reverse threaded (this has always been the non-drive side crank).

Remove cooling fan, all belts, radiator shroud, pulleys, water pump and harmonic balancer. Probably will need to remove the alternator and power steering pump also. Drain the coolant. loosen the oil pan removing the front 2 bolts on both sides. Take all bolts from the timing chain cover. Carefully remove it from the engine. You should be looking at the old timing chain. Rotate the crank until the two dots, one on the cam gear and the other on the crank gear, are positioned together. Cam gear dot on the bottom, crank gear dot on the top. Take out the 3 cam gear bolts. Slide both gears towards the radiator keeping them lined up. Install in reverse order.

Try contacting K2 directly.

http://www.eccyclesupply.com/k2bikes/index.php?page=contact

The K2 website has a binding technical manual, link was found at the bottom of the K2 home page (see link below). The manual provides NO part numbers and NO repair procedures, but the repair is fairly easy.

http://assets.k2sports.com/k2snow/ftpk2snow/2017/catalogs/k2snowboarding_binding_tech_manual.pdf

The back straps on the K2 Cinch are called "grab loops" as shown in photo below.

If both “grab loops” are broken, take a few photos first so you can recall the routing for installation of the new “grab loops”.

These "grab loops" are held in by two silver coloured roll pins which can easily be tapped out with a small nail & hammer. If the pin doesn't come out easy, tap from the other side of the pin. The pin has a head on one side.

You may need to use pliers to remove the broken piece of strap from the top lever.

Take the broken strap pieces to your K2 retailer ( snowboard shop) and ask them to order a new strap. K2 info suggests you can’t order parts online direct from K2, so you have to order through a K2 retailer.

Use your other binding with the good strap to copy the routing of the new strap. You might want to order two new grab loop straps and change them both while you are at it. ??

That motor has a timing chain, not a timing belt. Replacing it requires removing the water pump, dropping the oil pan, removing the balancer and timing cover. Rotate the crank so the dots on the cam gear and crank gear line up at the 6 and 12 o clock positions respectively. Unbolt the cam gear and remove it and the chain. If you need to remove the crank gear you can use a three jaw puller or something similar to pull it off. Reinstall the crank gear lining up the gear with the keyway on the crank and press it on with the appropriate tool. Install the cam gear with the chain and make sure dots line up again. It may be necessary to remove the valve covers and rocker arms as well to rotate the cam shaft if need be.

If you have electric steering(no power steering pump)you have to change the entire steering gear assembly as no part is available.If you have the system with a pump a part is available.In order to change the inner tie rod you would loosen the 21mm lock nut on the tie rod.remove the 18mm nut on the outer tie rod and spin off after removing the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle.Remove the nut and the inner and outer clamps on the tie rod boot.remove the boot.You would then need a special inner tie rod tool to turn the threaded inner rod from the steering gear.

Gear cases are easy to take apart with the proper tools.I suggest buying a Clymer Manuel. it has a list of special tools. TEAR DOWN PROCEDURE(1) remove the propeller shaft bearing carrier assembly by removing the carrier ring. takes a special tool. (2)the bearing carrier depending on the running condition will become stuck in the gear case. there is a special tool for removing the bearing carrier out of the gear case.(3) the bearing carrier houses the reverse gear make sure the reverse gear was removed when the bearing carrier came out. (4)look inside of gear case you will see the propshaft assembly, drive shaft with pinion gear assembly, and the forward gear.(5) on the drive shaft pinion gear you will see a nut. there is a close clearance between that nut and the clutch dog on the propshaft assembly. it takes a special wrench to get this nut off plus a spline tool to hold the drive shaft as your turning the nut off. you can make them both but be careful.(6) there are two different styles for this model of stern drive a "R" and a "MR" the "MR" drive has a retaining nut for bearing preload for the drive shaft. need special tool to remove it. the "R" drive has a spring loaded pin on the top of the driveshaft to control bearing preload. no special tool need to remove shaft after pinion nut removal.(7) once the driveshaft is removed the propshaft comes out by lining up the shift shaft just right. (8) turn the shift shaft until the shift crank is at a right angle to the propeller shaft. you can't see the shift crank because it is behind the forward gear you have to go by experience or feel. once you have the shift crank lined up properly push the propshaft to the left side of the gear case housing then pull out at that angle. GOAL propshaft "clutch dog actuating shaft" in basic terms, is like a hook that grabs onto the shift crank. you unhook it by moving the propshaft tip to the side, causing the back of the propshaft inside the housing, to unhook and move away the the shift crank. it sounds complicated but once you do it you see how easy it is.(9) once you have the propshaft and the forward gear out you can leave the shift shaft inside.there is no need to remove it. have fun

1) removed left hand engine cover 2)place bike in 1st gear and remove flywheel bolt. 3) remove flywheel ( tool might be needed) 4) undo screws for stator. re-asemble in reverse order. air impact tool is good aid for removing motocycle flywheels. some rear wheel spindles may aid the removal of a f/w.