Question about King Kutter II Gear Driven Rotary Tiller 6ft Tiller Width, Model No. Tg - 72 - Y

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How do you replace the tiller shaft seals on the king kutter 2

I'v pulled the cover and the gears on the gear driven side also the bearing retainer, also pulled the bearing retainer on other side, trying to get enough space or movement to get the bearings off , but it seems like the bearings are pressed on. Don't know what to do next.

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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mister_b_65
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SOURCE: how much gear oil 72'' tiller

In Gearboxes use gear oil (type GL5-85W 140 or Triple Zero
Grease; which can be poured, and has "EP" i.e. "Extreme Pressure" additives.) Fill the gearbox to approximately half-full level.

Posted on Apr 09, 2010

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MOTORWIZJ
  • 1389 Answers

SOURCE: 4' king kutter makes grinding noise at times

USE SAY A BROOM STICK AND ON THE OUTSIDE ON THE DECK YOU CAN USE IT LIKE A STETHOSCOPE AND PUT IT TO YOUR EAR AND LISTEN TO DIFFERENT SPOTS ON THE DECK TO HELP YOU ZERO IN ON THE CULPRIT .. IF'N I WAS ANY HELP VOTE FOR ME ...THANKS.. JAY

Posted on May 26, 2010

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: I want to paint my King kutter ll gear driven 6 ft

Caterpillar Yellow is about as close as you will come.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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1 Answer

NEED DIAGRAM FOR LOCATIONS OF CRANKSHAFT PULLY,OIL SLINGER AND SPRING.FOR 1983 MAZDA 2.2L DIESEL


Here is the procedure:-


  1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.


  2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.


  3. Remove oil pump and strainer.
TIMING GEAR COVER



  1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.


  2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS



  1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.


  1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.


  2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.


  3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.


  4. Remove injection pump drive gear.


  5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.



CAMSHAFT




  1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.


  2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.



PISTON & CONNECTING ROD




  1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.


  2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.


  3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.



CRANKSHAFT




  1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.


  2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.


  3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.



I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

Mar 26, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to rebuild dana 60 front?


Fully rebuild, or partial rebuild? Pinion, ring, spider gears, pumpkin, bearings? Rebuilding it FULLY and PROPERLY is a big story, one too big to relate here, and it takes quite a lot of special tooling (differential spreader, dial indicators, etc). Please don't attempt this unless you have a well equipped shop.

If you just need to replace the spider gears, that's easy. Drain the oil, remove the cover, rotate the pumpkin until you can unbolt the crosspin. Push/pull the crosspin out, rotate the spider gears until they come out. Remove the side gears. Remove all four thrust washers.

Replace all four thrust washers, then the new side gears, then mesh the new spider gears with the side gears & rotate them into place. If the crosspin hole won't line up, rotate one axle shaft until it does. Install the new crosspin and bolt it in. Replace the cover gasket and cover, refill.

Going further requires a LOT more work, but you'll need to remove the spider & side gears first anyway. If you're replacing bearings or the pumpkin or the ring & pinion, you'll need a bunch of new shims to work with until you can get the ring-pinion clearance exactly right. You'll also need a differential spreader to get enough space to remove/install the pumpkin with its bearings in place. If you're replacing the pinion gear, you'll need to take some painfully exact measurements or you'll NEVER get the ring/pinion clearances correct.

Jul 29, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to gear spindle from housing


The unit is retained by two or three screws surrounding a retaining ring on the saw blade side, and I believe there are some screws holding the gear housing on the motor side that need to be removed as well. I just replaced the bearing on mine a week ago, and even though the situation is obvious once you figure it out I was not smart enough to do so, and wasted an hour trying to figure out how to remove that retaining ring over the bearing. Good luck

Apr 05, 2013 | Makita 5007MG Factory Reconditioned 7 14...

1 Answer

Rear wheel bearings are shot. How do I pull the shaft out?


You'll have to take the back cover off the rear end and drain off the gear lube. Inside you'll see the ring gear and in front is the pinion gear. Inside the housing of the ring gear you'll see small spider gears. These spider gears run on a gear that is on the end of the axle. The end of the axle will have a C-clip or some kind of retainer. When you get the retaining divice out and the bolts out that hold the bearing housing on the vacuum plate, the bearing and axle should pull out.

Nov 26, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What should the back lash on a 2004 F150 rear diff 3L55 8.8 be? On the spider gears


You do not even need a dial indicator to set the backlash.
Just make sure you put the side shims back in on the same side they came out of.
Remove your ring gear from the your carrier.
Remove the ring gear from the carrier from the other truck and put your ring gear on it.
Torque the bolts with thread locker on them.

To get your carrier out:
Loosen the the two bolts at each top corner and remove all the rest of the bolts from the cover.
Put a pan under it and brake the seal and let it drain into the pan and when its done take the cover off.
Remove the wheels and drums.
Remove the pinion pin retaining bolt.
Remove the pinion pin.
Push both axles in.
Remove both "U" retainers from the axles.
Pull both axles out.
Remove the bearing retaining bolts and caps.
Mark the shims so you can put them back in on the side they came out of.
Pry the carrier out with a block of wood at the mating surface of the cover so you do not hurt it with the pry bar.
Put the LS carrier in and drive your shims back in on the side they came out of.
Install the bearing caps and bolts and torque to what is called for.
Push the axles back in and put the "U" retainers on them.
Put every thing else back to in place.
Use RTV for a gasket on the back cover.
Put some LS friction modifier in the rear end and then fill it.

My notes:
Things I have learned about 8.8 Rear Ends that were set up by the FORD FACTORY and not touched by anybody.
Well i hope this helps.

Nov 10, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front and back berring dissassembly of differential 2001 dodge 1500


For the rear diff., remove the driveshaft, brake drums, diff. cover, remove pinion flange nut, move diff carrier to access side gear retainer bolt and remove bolt, slide side gear pin out and push axles in to remove axle retainers and remove axels. Mark carrier bearing retainers, spin bearing retainers to loosen carrier for removal. Remove carrier, remove pinion out of diff case, then r&r bearings. Any shims should be replaced in their original location for depth and pinion to ring contact.

Feb 05, 2011 | 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck

2 Answers

Where is the speed sensor


This is what it looks like:


f412796.gif

VSS with connector and driven gear



Here's the steps on getting to it and replacing it:


Removal & Installation

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
  4. Unplug the VSS electrical connector.
  5. Remove the VSS protective heat shield.
  6. Remove the retaining bolt from the VSS.
  7. Lift the VSS out of the transaxle.
  8. Remove the driven gear retainer and the drive gear.

To install:

  1. Inspect the O-ring on the sensor and replace if necessary.
  2. Install the driven gear and the retainer.
  3. Place the VSS into the transaxle.
  4. Tighten the retaining bolt to 36-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm).
  5. Install the VSS protective heat shield.
  6. Attach the VSS electrical connector.
  7. Install the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
  8. Lower the vehicle.
  9. Connect the negative battery cable.

Sep 15, 2010 | 1999 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

How do i get the top of the mixer off to fix the gears? i'm unable to find a way to remove the lid.


You mean the transmission cover: here what I did to removed it: all item number reference to part catalog
1- remove top cover (# 1, p10)
2- removed 4 crews #55,56 p10
3- remove cap bearing retainer (#9, p10))
4- remove #1,2,3,4 p14
5- remove retainer twin bearing (#8, p10)
6-remove #32,33,34 and 45,46,47 p14
7- remove 4 crews (#32 p10) and pull out shift handle assembly
8- use a wooden rod (1/2 ") and push though the shift handle access and up to the transmission cover to push out the cover, be carefull not to damage gear tooth.
Good luck and have fun

Apr 18, 2010 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

How do you replace the ignition switch on a 1994 Lincoln Town Car?


Here is how to remove ignition lock:

   Rotate ignition lock cylinder to RUN position. Using a 1/8-inch drift, depress lock cylinder retaining pin through access hole and remove lock cylinder.

Carefully NOTE: the position of the bearing retainer prior to removal.

   Remove blue plastic bearing retainer by inserting a screwdriver or similar tool, with a 90 degree bend on the tip, between bearing retainer and bearing and by prying upward.

   Insert tip of a screwdriver into Double-D slot of bearing, then rotate 90 degrees. Remove bearing.

   Remove lock drive gear. Carefully note relationship of lock drive gear to position of rack teeth.

Here is the installation:
   Position lock drive gear in base of lock cylinder housing in the same position as that noted during removal procedure. The position of lock drive gear is correct if last tooth on drive gear is meshed with last tooth on rack.

   Position bearing retainer in lock cylinder housing. Insert tip of a screwdriver into Double-D slot of bearing, then rotate 90 degrees.

   Press blue plastic bearing retainer into lock cylinder housing. Ensure retainer is in its original position.

   Line up flats of drive gear with flats of washer by pulling down on the column lock actuator.

   Install lock cylinder assembly.

   Check for proper start in PARK and NEUTRAL. Also, check to ensure start circuit cannot be actuated in DRIVE or REVERSE positions and the column is locked in LOCK position.

May 04, 2009 | 1994 Lincoln Town Car

4 Answers

Tine shaft removal for mantis 2 cycle tiller


Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!

May 01, 2009 | Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller

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