Whirpool cooktop element does not heat right

SEE PICS Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fusebox orbreaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multi meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continui

I'm having the same problem! Except I'm not guarenteed any heat even on high.

Bad control or infinite switch. replace the switch for that element and you will be good to go.

age is factor see if you can get replacement part for it call used appliance store

Scott,
On each of the heating elements there is a thermostat that does two things. It is a high limit safety thermostat and then a different set of contacts turn on the hot surface light. Unfortunately, you can't just replace that part. You will need to isolate which element it is with a mutimeter and replace the entire element.When you turn one of the units on high you will see a dark line under the glass running 1/2 way across the elements. Those are the thermostats... Find the defective one and the rest is pretty simple to replace

not related any further then sounds as if you have 2 burner switches gone bad,and actually the front right burner is controlled by a electronic control circuit board part retails for about $160-$200 part number 12002723, and left rear switch about $30 part number 74007841 . uint needs to be uninstalled from counter and parts changed by removing the bottom panel

Sounds like the Switch or the element are bad, try trouble shooting them. It's a stove top??
Eddie Rentas
Tupper LAke NY

you set it fro low and goes straigt to high???? no adjustment in heat setting either of or high?? if so youll need to repalce the infinte switch controllins that burner

no they are made to cycle that way they are halagen and cycle with a sensor dont work like the old coil ones do enegey efficent and hotter than old coils dont use them without a pan on them to reflect heat back to the sensor to prolong their life

I have had this same problem on the JP350.

I have replaced the switch several times, and am now tempted to replace the heating element and the switch the next time it becomes constant (currently, it is intermittent... which has led to some burnt food).