To cool the compressor?? I do not have a problem, this is just a general discussion question I'm throwing out there. Every fridge I've ever owned, the compressor gets very warm/hot after running. I have a small 2cf fridge in the basement, I put a small personal fan in the back blowing right on the compressor. Now it no longer gets warm/hot, it stays right about room temp. Here's the question: Is this a good thing or a bad thing. I'm thinking that a cooler compressor will last longer than one that is not cooled. Would it hurt or help to do this with my big fridge??

It needs refrigerant gas, there isn't enough pressure to cool the whole refrigerant evaporator plate when the liquid gas vaporises to gaseous gas. You need a service call.

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The purpose of a refrigeration system is to move heat from the cabinet and dissipate it into free air.

When a refrigeration system is working correctly the compressor, some of the pipework and the condenser will become quite warm and hand-hot in some cases - the interior of the cabinet must then become cold unless there is a fault.

If the compressor runs and the condenser doesn't become warm, either the compressor is broken or the refrigerant has leaked away. If the condenser is warm but the cabinet isn't cool enough either the compressor isn't running long enough or the defrost panel is being left switched on.
If there is a doubt about the compressor control, the thermostat and sensors, etc. It can be temporarily bypassed for the purpose of testing the other refrigeration components and system.

The compressor being hot means it is getting power to it. 2 possible problems. The compressor is locked up internally (too expensive) or the start relay or overload could be bad (approx cost for both parts about $45). You have to decide if you want to risk $50 and still find out you have a bad compressor. Most service techs have a direct test harness to hook up to compressors and make them run without the start relay and overload but not everyone knows how to do it properly.

Unplug the unit and pull the relay off the compressor and shake it to see if it rattles. If it does, the relay is bad and will need to be replaced. Here is that part to order.
Here is the overload relay that should be replaced also.
Is you pull the relay and it does not rattle, post back the results to me.
Here is a video to help you out.

If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

Hi.. feel the dividing rdge between fridge and freezer.. is it warm?.. chances are that the little fan at the back of the fridge freezer that helps cool the compressor, has snagged own it's own wire... it's a weak fan, like you get in a computer, but it does a lot of work.. without it, the coolent does not do it's job, which results in your device not cooling things properly

Have seen it many times before especially on Whirlpool fridges before. It is not detrimental to the running of the fridge but has the tendency to warp the door fridge seals. In my opinion, when the fridge was piped up, instead of running the high side (hot pipe from the compressor), through the radiator first and then to the fridge body, they have done it in the opposite way. As a result, All the heat from the compressor is going firstly into the fridge frame to eventually exiting and then going to the radiator.(Thats why it is so hot between the doors). To rectify this, you need a technician to swap the pipes over at the back as already discussed, then regass..

No, it is not a failed condenser. You need to see if the compressor is running though. When it runs you shaould have a fan in the freezer running, a fan underneath the fridge running, and the compressor should be running. I would be willing to bet that either the compressor is bad, or the start relay on the compressor.

Generally on these models they rely on cold air being pumped fr\om the freezer to the fridge and have a adjusting device to control the flow, you need to locate and check this is free and working properly. Another reason for freezer ice up is a shortage of gas in the unit, this is usually unfixable as the leak can rarely be found as it usually occurs within the cabinet case. Sorry to say it would then be a throw away.

Peter

If the compressor tries to go on every two minutes, then the relay is functioning.

1. If the compressor has failed, it might be getting hot and tripping the thermal overload to shut itself down. It will cycle like you say and will be unable to cool the fridge.

2.It's also possible that you have lost refrigerant from the system. When the compressor goes on, the pressure drops below a threshold value. The system sees that there is not enough pressure, and shuts down. Once the pressure rebuilds, it tries again.

3. If the fins in the rear of the fridge are clogged with dust/debris, the system will not be efficient enough to cool. I doubt this is the case as the compressor would generally just stay on for a long time... longer than 2 minutes.

Try turning the thermostat to the coldest setting possible for both the fridge and the freezer. If the unit still cycles off after 2 minutes, consider repair.