Dometic cr-50 refrigerator in 2012 freightliner Cascadia suddenly just quit working. No interior light. Completely dead.
SOURCE: REfrig and freezer not cooling
These unit must be level to function. Never side to side tilt but it is permissible to have it tilted a little toward the back. This would be the first step.
SOURCE: Dometic refrigerator inconsistent temperature
Yes the clearances on gas absorption frig is critical. Not to say there is not another problem. Is the thermister attached to the frig fins?
SOURCE: interior lights not working on Samsung Refrigeration.
My samsung rf265ab did the same thing after I was cleaning it and the door was open for an extended time. I noticed the the light bulbs looked good and also notice 2 tiny black buttons between the light bulbs. They were slightly extended. I pushed both in and when I opened the fridge again the lights were working. Don't know if I fixed it or just a coincidence.
SOURCE: Info on replacing drain hose on dometic model 2652
You will need to remove the fridge and set it on the floor or at least pull it forward enough to reach the top of the drain hose. There is clip that holds the drain tube to a nipple that sticks out of the back of the fridge that will need to be removed. Remove this clip and the drain hose should pull right off. Route the new drain hose down through the cooling unit coils to the door panel. Attach it back to the nipple with the clip and you should be good to go. The part number for the new drain hose is 2932749019.
Hope this helps,
Jeff
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SOURCE: need directions to remove and replace 110 element in Dometic 2652
Get to the back of the fridge. On the right hand side, there is a metal tube about 4" in diameter which starts at the bottom and goes up. This is a piece of thin sheet metal, which holds insulation against the refrigerant line that goes up the right side of the fridge. The 110 volt heater is located inside of that, near the bottom. The heater sits inside of a small tube, welded to the refrigerant line, and is easily replaced. To get to it, remove any flat sheet metal parts that block your view of the 4" tube (you will need to have a clear view of the bottom of it.) Then you can see the heater. It is on the left side of your 4" tube, metal, about 5/16" in diameter, has 2 wires attached, and sticks out an inch or so to the left. Trace the wires back to where they are connected on your fridge, and remove them, (probably with a small straight blade screwdriver.) It may be necessary to remove another cover or 2 to get to that connection, so remember where all your cover plates came from. Digital cameras are great ;-) . Then, on your 4" tube, unsnap and open the "door" (the metal piece which is a couple if inches wide and 7" or so high,) Grab a hold of your old heater, and pull it up. It probably wont come up all the way so you can lift it completely out, so you will have to unsnap some of your 4" tube above the door. When you remove the old heater, note its position relative to the insulation and refrigerant tube, 'cause the new one goes right back in the same spot. Pull the old one out, and put the new one in. You will know you have it installed correctly when it is snug in its own little tube (you wont be able to see that part,) and there is no side to side play. Then reverse the directions, and put everything back together again. When you re-attach the 2 wires to your unit, don't worry about getting it wrong, it doesn't matter which wire goes with what connector.
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