My 2006 Suzuki Drz 125 will start but won't go, it just dies, it acts likeits not getting gas, I've cleaned the carb numerous if times, got a little better but if I hold it wide open just pops

SOURCE: How do I set the timing on a suzuki drz 125. I

Try and get hold of the workshop manual. it will tell you the correct settings .

SOURCE: removing the carburator on a suzuki drz, 125.

It is quiet easy, you remove the seat then the fuel tank this will expose the carburetor then its simply a matter of disconecting fuel line and unscrewing attachement screws. why do you need to do this? I would be very careful doing this as any dirt or dust or grime getting in can have huge impact

SOURCE: drz 400 sm starts but i cant give it any gas or it dies

Can you slowly increase the revs? It sounds like an accelerator pump or debris in the carb.

SOURCE: timing a 250 drz suzuki

I have a dr-z 250 suzuki and i replaced piston and rings. Dont know how to reset timing chain and cam gears. does eney body know how to set the timing on this bike.

SOURCE: I have a 2002 suzuki drz 125L dirtbike and im

The carb on a DRZ 125 or KLX 125 comes pre-set from the factory with a very lean tuning. At first it may run well but once you get some time on it with a little build up and some dirt the lean setting gets even worse. To correct this you need to thoroughly clean the carb , specifically the fuel screw. Remove the carb from the intake and airbox rubbers and take off the slide cap. Drain the carb from all fuel. The fuel screw is in a recessed tube located on the bottom of the carb on the front side towards the cylinder. It may ahve a brass plug covering the screw. This is done at the factory to prevent tampering for emissions purposes. The plug can be removed by taking a very small drill bit 1/8" or so and very carefully drilling a hole in it. Put a small sheet metal screw in the hole and pull with pliers and it should come out. Make a note of the position of the screw and slowly turn it clockwise in to see what the setting is. Do not apply heavy pressure when you feel it getting tight stop. It is a soft brass screw with a fine point an is easy to damage. Typically the factory settings range from 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. This is way too lean for the bike to idle and run well or even start without the choke. back the screw out and remove the spring and O ring. Using carb cleaner with the hose attached insert it into the hole you just removed the crew from and spray it out. You should have a good stream of spray into the center bore of the carb. Re-insert the O ring and then the spring and fuel screw. turn it in until you feel it making contact and then note the position and back it out 3 1/2 turns. Put the carb back on and it should be able to start and run without the choke. Some bikes will still need a bit more tuning. The older carbs had a slide needle that had 3 to 5 positions on the needle that could be adjusted with the movable clip. Since this does not have that option you could go to a Yamaha dealer and buy the needle from a TTR 125 and install it as it is the same carb. This will cost you around $15.00. Or you could go to a hardware store and buy some 3/0 stainless washers and remove the needle and put 2 or 3 under it to shim the needle up just like the clip on an adjustable needle. You may spend $1.00 with this option. The bike should run better than new.