Trigger mechanism doesn't shut off

Try ez test to check for proper operation. Remove nails and air supply, point nose of gun up then down again. The driver should not move from the top of cylinder position. If driver is moving up then down replace the driver oring. If driver oring seems ok then connect air supply and bump fire the nailer without nails against soft wood and door open so that you can see the driver and feeder moving. Bump fire the gun and make sure that the driver is moving all the way back up to top of cylinder and the feeder is moving rapidly back and forward. If movement seems ok then hold the nose down on soft wood and depress and hold the trigger. This will fire the gun but driver will stay at the bottom position and not return until you release the trigger or lift the gun. When holding the gun with the driver down position, no air should leak out the top or bottom of the gun. If air leaks out bottom, replace lower bumper, if air leaks out the top replace the upper bumper. Good luck

The I.R. 2135Ti or TiMAX has some known issues with the trigger o-ring (item# 22A) swelling, the throttle valve (item# 28D) bending or breaking, and the throttle valve seal (item# 28E) wearing out or deteriorating. Procedure wise you should not be able to remove the trigger without first removing the inlet bushing assembly (item# 26) the reason is that the reverse valve (item# 24) keeps the throttle valve from tipping forward and releasing the trigger, there is a slot for the stem of the throttle valve to slide into.
Follow this link to the parts list:
http://manualarchive.ingersollrandproducts.com/ir_pdfs/Tools/Vehicle%20Service%20Tools/Air%20Impact%20Tools/45534070_ed3.pdf
When reassembling the tool first install the inlet bushing assembly and then install the trigger, make sure to lube the o-ring before inserting.

This is a contractors gun its a vary good gun worth about 200 hunderd dollars . The problem is eigther the spring that returns the trigger _neddle valve to seat pisition is eighter stuck or broken. But if you are haveing this kind of problem it means the gun was not cleaned correctly . Im a perfinial spray painter and if the gun isn;t clean then the mechine wasn;t cleaned as well it goes hand in hand . So what kind of mechine are trying to opperate its an airless acording to the picture and that makes sence . You may be able to clean the gun or get a kit to rebuild it its about a hunderd dollars but the mechine most likely needs to be cleaner at best if no completely rebuild and repacked . If the seals in the pump can put out pressure and the trigger on the gun is slack then you shouldn't be able to shut the paint off because the trigger would be open at this point

Sound like you have a bad trigger on the gun. Does gas spray when you pull the trigger? Check the wire plug that goes from the pistol to the unit. It should be under the liner hose where it connects to the machine. Then use a voltage meter on the wires going to the drive feed motor, and see if you get current when you pull the trigger. If gas doesn't spray neither, sounds like you got a bad trigger switch

If debris enter the gun, over time the vanes will not move into proper positon and react to air-flow. Vanes can become stuck if stored for long period of time. Pour small amount of diesel fuel into the gun and activate the trigger. The fuel should come out clean, if however black gunk comes out, keep adding fuel until gun is clean. Eventually all the the debris will be washed out and restore function. Good luck

you can try to unscrew the plastic casing panels and see if the spring the regulates the trigger needs to be recalibrated

fill it wit oil hold in triger and flick between forard and reverse should free up the vains inside

if u take the tail outa ur gun u will see that da gause filter inside has broke up.it gone inside and holding da valve open pick it out wit a seal pick r somethin

I used to repair these impacts for a living. Simplest first thing to do is back off the three 1/8" set screws in the back a couple turns. Pour a little varsol into the air inlet and plug it in. run the gun until your hand is black, (wear a glove). Once the varsol stops disconnect the air, add a few drops of air tool oil and tighten the screws slowly and evenly. You will hear the impact rpm increase. If your gun doesn't speed up to it's original scream you will have to remove the four 5/32" set screws and see what's worn. To open it hold the impact by the nose 3" off the table and position a center punch in the hole of the anvil shank with the same hand and hit it with a hammer hard enough to overtake the spring. The guts should drop on to the table in tact. The guts are in twp parts, the hammering mechanism, and the air motor. The three 1/8" screws hold the motor together. You will soon see the problem. Take the back off the air motor and it will show your if the veins are worn. Cjeck the end plates for wear. You can turn the end plates down on a lathe if available. As a rule of thumb, if the anvil shank is dry buy a repair kit, if it's wet, buy a tune-up kit. If the ring on the anvil shank doesn't turn, buy a repair kit and change your sockets. When rebuilding these front seal often leaks. These impacts are supposed to use 30 weight oil, but a mix of Ingersol Rand grease and 30 weight oil, ( just till it's slightly runny) will stay much longer. Assembling the anvil assembly can be tricky until you figure out how to hold the shank and two pins with the same hand. Good luck.

An air-powered impact wrench runs off of an air compressor with a tank – the air compressor should have at least a 10 gallon tank and be able to generate at least 3hp. Also, an impact wrench requires special sockets that are designed to withstand the high torque applied by the wrench.