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you will need to determine what amps the timer switch is rated for, and what are the rated amps for the light/fan/heater. More then likely you will need to buy a new timer switch which is rated for the correct amps. Hope this helps Tim
1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3
2) That's where it's gets fuzzy. What color wires are on HentVentLight? Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box? What other wires are inside the wall box? What kind of switch are you installing?
3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box. Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.
4) Start at wall box: Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight. The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch. Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws. Wire to fan to another silver screw Wire to light to another silver screw.
5) Work at ceiling box: Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral. The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3. Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.
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Also take advantage of fixya phone service. For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project. Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
What is in the room above the basement bathroom? And how large is the diameter of the vent pipe you need to run? Do you have a maximum number of elbows, and runs of feet maximum you can't exceed?
Is the Frame wall above the foundation, accessible by going up thru the ceiling of the bathroom, and the elbowing over and into the outrside frame wall at that point?-- and then up a ways, and then out thru the outside wall?
Another possibility would be: How far to a window, or vent already in the basement?-- Could you run the piping there, and then out?
How thick is the concrete wall?-- Is it reinforced Concrete-- or just Masonry Block wall? A block wall is not as hard to get thru--
I know I asked a lot of questions-- but maybe it helps you think thru your options?
remove the switch and test it with a meter on ohms or remove the switch and disconnect the fan wires and connect the fan wires to an extention cord to test.
Phil
I had the same problem and mine was cause by a blown fuse. It's not too hard to fix. Remove the cover by pulling down and squeezing the wire arms on each side. You need a VERY long screwdriver to remove the entire motor/fan/light assembly from the housing (8 screws total). Place the assembly on the floor and look for the fuse on top. The fuse is on the motor, not near the heater portion. It is a ceramic, not glass, cylindrical fuse, 20 amps, 125 volts. This fuse is sold as a microwave oven fuse & costs about 2 bucks at a hardware store. Replace, reinstall, and you're done.
If you are not very handy I don't think I'd tackle this project. There's going to be drywall cutting, backing to install, attic crawling, wiring, ducting to attach, proper insulating. As an electrician I've done this sort of thing in between 1 and 2 hours, depending on how smooth things go. If you find somebody you trust that's done it before who is willing do to it on the side for cash you're looking at $25-$60 for labor. Is it worth it to you?
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