Clothes are still damp when dryer shuts off on sensor drying.
First turn off your breakers, then back on. Next check the wiring at the back of the dryer. You could have wires burned in two. You may next have an element that is burned out. Your relay switch underneath the top could be bad. To check it , bypass it by taping the two wires coming off it together. If it works, then you will know it is the relay .
SOURCE: Squealing Fisher Paykel Dryer DE05-US2
dryer's have a long belt that runs around the drum. a common culprit is an idler pulley on the belt tensioner. you can take off the front of the dryer and oil it for a temp fix. it will probably need to be replaced
SOURCE: my fisher paykel dryer does
after further investigation it was not just my vent tube that was clogged, it was the vent to the outside. it you are having drying problems, try to take a long screwdriver and vacuum and knock the fuzz loose and **** it up. dryer works like brand new now.
SOURCE: dryer only gets warm now. it used to dry clothes
It sounds like the element is shorted. if its an electric. remove the front panel, disconnect the wires on the front of the heater housing. remove the 2 screws holding it in, look at how the bracket on the rt side is before you take it out so you can put it back correctly. there are two more wires on the back of the housing that need to be disconnected to remove housing from unit. with it out remove the screw on the t-stat with the reset button. the housing will now come apart and you can check the elements. if broken order an element kit. it will come with new elements, t-stats,reset and sensor board. replace all components and clean out venting and make it as short as possible with the fewest turns as possible. this should help assuming you have a top load fisher&paykel electric dryer.
SOURCE: Dryer does not dry
I had same problem. I constantly had to take the front off and push the reset button, sometimes 5 times in a load to reset the thermostat. I thought it was a faulty thermostat. I took the lint trap/cup out, removed the screw holding the large round white cover and was flabbergasted! The whole inside was stopped up with lint. Thourghly cleaned the inside and unstopped the completely clogged holes and replaced. Ain't the Internet awesome!
SOURCE: My dryer works however it is not drying the
HI. There are a few areas i would advise to check to resolve this issue.
The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.
Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.
If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.
A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again.
The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.
Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.
NOTE- Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.
Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.
First try cleaning the moisture sensors with rubbing alcohol,
these are two silver colored strips located inside the drier just below the
lint cleanout
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You may have an element out at this point. if your dryer is 10-12 years old, you may want to look at replacing it.
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