Maytag Bravos 3.8 Cu. Ft. Washer Logo
Steve Posted on Feb 16, 2013

MAYTAG BRAVOS QUIET 300 VERY LOUD WHEN IN SPIN CYCLE

DID NOT MAKE NOISE UNTILL A WEEK AGO

1 Answer

t snapp

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  • Contributor 38 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 18, 2013
t snapp
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Joined: Feb 18, 2013
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Spinout bearing bad if noisey in spin only whole tub must be repaired

5 Related Answers

duby1990

Justin Duby

  • 370 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 18, 2008

SOURCE: Maytag Washer HAV2558AWW loud noise during spin cycle

Your maytag is really an amana and the bearings are bad. Yes it does cost a lot. If i were you i would buy another washer. Get a whirlpool. (whirlpool now owns maytag)

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Anonymous

  • 85 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 16, 2008

SOURCE: LOUD NOISE IN SPIN CYCLE

you have a bad tub seal asm. remove agitator, spin basket and tub asm. remove seal and install new one. good luck

TheMobilian

Dan Webster

  • 8221 Answers
  • Posted on May 17, 2009

SOURCE: Very loud noise during spin cycle

Probably a broken strut or support. some call it a shock absorber.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

kel1guy2002

Kelly

  • 3740 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 21, 2010

SOURCE: My Maytag Bravos quiet series

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
My response is very long and will be in 2 parts this is PART 1

Here is what the service manual says about Ld:

"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain

water from the wash tub)

Check the following:

Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?

Is the drain hose installed properly? See

"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Also:

Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of

the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)

above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)

a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet

and outlet drain hoses off the pump.

Note that there is a tab on the outlet

connector that fits into a slot in the

hose.

b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head

screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:

-Disconnect the wire connector from the

drain pump terminals.

- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each

of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.

----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --

From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:

Long Drain

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?

• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.

TEST 7

TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test

Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps

test.

2. Remove the console to access the machine/

motor control assembly. See Accessing

& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

3. Visually check that the P4 connector is

inserted all the way into the machine/motor

control.

If visual check passes, go to step 4.

If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and

repeat step 1.

4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.

If resistance values are good, go to step 7.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem

exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor

control and the motor. Go to step 5.

5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom

of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and

take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the

pump motor.

If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/

motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.

If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check

the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.

7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.

8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 03, 2011

SOURCE: maytag bravo quiet series 300: Stopped at spin:

We have a Maytag Bravo Quiet Series 300 washing machine, the door latch is broken. I have the replacement part ( the locking mechanism) but I need can not figure out how to get the top of the washer to flip up to give me access to top front of the machine to remove the old part and replace it with the new.

How do I flip back the top (not the door) of this machine?

John

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