- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
A 500 mm mirror lens is a fully manual lens (manual focus no aperture change) using a T mount adapter to your specific camera. The T mount costs some $15. It depends on your camera how to turn off the auto focus and go to aperture priority mode. The aperture on a mirror lens is set, usually at F8, so the shutter is the only item that can be adjusted to get a correct exposure. A digital camera (set in adjustable ASA setting) can change it's ASA to help with getting a correct exposure. Manual for digital camera are usually on the companies' web site.
If the film has the DX coding on the can then the camera automatically sets the film speed. If the can is not coded then the camera automatically sets the ASA/ISO to 100, and there is no way to override this. If you need a manual, you may download one here.
As with many point&shoot cameras, the L20 doesn't give you any control over the sensitivity (whether you call it the ASA or the ISO). The camera expects you to point and shoot, while it takes care of the details. One advantage of more complex (and expensive) cameras is that they allow you to take more control over your photos.
The EM doesn't really have a manual shutter speed setting. It does have a Bulb setting for long exposures and a 1/90 second manual for flash, but otherwise the camera automatically sets the shutter speed to go with the currently selected aperture.
Normally you would set the aperture and let the camera set the shutter speed. You can adjust the shutter speed by pressing the exposure compensation button for +2 stops. You can also adjust the exposure by changing the ASA/ISO setting.
If you need a manual, you can download one from http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_em/nikon_em.htm
if it does not support manual ASA/ISO selection than you can just easely set it to under exposure( 1F stop) and afterwards just develop it as a 800ASA film.
I too had this problem. I had owned the F4s from new but only lightly used it. A single shot only then the red light flashing. Nothing I tried corrected this inc changing batteries, resetting DX / ASA setting etc. Even opening the camera back to ensure the film was feeding (one cause) and finally running an old film through on the fastest drive speed. Eventually I had to take the camera to a Nikon repair agent who charged me £230. On the first shot when I got it back the same happened. Naturally it went straight back and they kept it for another 3 weeks. I now have it back and it's OK (so far). I still did not get a satisfactory answer to what was wrong but I was told the top and bottom drives had been rebuilt. Sorry this is not a quick fix but I don't think there is one. tohThere is nothing in any of the books or manuals to help or even mention it. best wishes Brian
×