Was running fine, then suddenly quit. I'm not getting spark at either sparkplug
If there's no spark, then either the spark plug has come into contact with gas, or the ignition coil is bad. Try either replacing the spark plugs, or removing the old ones and seeing if the tips are damp.
If replacing them doesn't work or the plugs are dry, then try replacing the ignition coil.
I replaced the plugs, and they are dry. I found a blog where a lot of Kohler engine owners experienced this and other problems. One replaced the "ignition module" assembly and this solved his particular problem. I'm just pouring through an online manual now to see if I can figure out exactly where it is, and how to do it. Have you ever done something like that, and how difficult is it?
I've replaced them before and its not very difficult. Its usually located right behind the starter assembly (pull cord). Its a curved block that's fastened on with two bolts, usually a 10mm or 3/8 socket will fit. Would you happen to have the engine model number?
Well, it's a Kohler Command 20 horse, horizontal shaft, used to power a small tractor. I can get the exact model number if that helps. Also, it's electric start.
I believe it's a 1997 engine, if I'm reading the code right.
A little background: it belongs to a neighbor and hadn't been started for a couple of years. I drained the old gas and replaced it, and when it was running, ran STP carb treatment through one tankful. Drained the oil and replaced with the correct type, and replaced the oil filter. I degreased the entire engine as it is air cooled and was very greasy/dirty. I replaced the spark plugs with 2 of the right type and checked the gap. I've had to nurse it to get it going, then got a full day's use out of it - and suddenly it died and won't even try and start. I've checked both spark plug leads for spark, and have none on either side (twin cylinders).
I'm having a real hard time finding a diagram for it, but it does sound like the issue is still with the ignition coil. This isn't the correct diagram, but just to give you an idea:http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/... You would have to remove the starter assembly housing, (shown as #608) and then replace the coil (which should look like #333 on the bottom left) I'm tempted to think that it may be an issue with the carburetor, but if your not getting any spark at all, then it has to be the coil.
I think this may be the breakdown for it.http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengine... On page 59, it shows the breakdown for the starter assembly. It should be about 7 screws or so, (I cant tell too well from the angle) but that should be all you need to remove to get to the ignition coil.
Ok - I see, that's helpful. It shows and actual pic of the ignition modules - attached to the wires that go to the sparkplugs. Seems strange to me that both would quit at the same time? But I guess the best thing would be to replace them and see how it goes.
Is there any chance there's some kind of safety device that shuts the engine down? The engine is equipped with an "Oil Sentry."
It just seems strange to me that it was running more or less fine, and then suddenly, no spark at either cylinder...
By the way, I really appreciate all your time and help with this!
That's an excellent point, I completley forgot about the oil sensor! If oil is too low, or if the sensor malfunctions it will kill the spark to the spark plugs. If you oil is at the right level, then try replacing the oil sensor. I think your right about both quitting at the same time. Also happy to help :)
The oil sensor should be on page 34 labeled as AB.
Thanks - your experience helps! I'll check that out.
I'm going to get on it this morning. I wonder if there's any way to bypass the oil sentry, just to check if this is the problem? If the oil levels are right, and the oil sensor is working, could this be a sign of a major compression issue?
You should be able to remove the sentry to test, by removing AH on the diagram. The connectors should connect right to each other.
I'm not sure about the compression, you could try turning it by hand after removing the front housing, but im not sure how accurate that would be. To test smaller engines I would tie a rope around the drive cup and pull, but I'm not sure if that's a viable solution for this engine. Also I looked at the wrong page, you would need to remove AB to test without the sentry.
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I'm wondering if there's any way to bypass the sensor just in order to try that as a solution. I'm getting on it this morning. If the oil sensor is shutting things down, but the oil level is right, there's a chance there's a major compression issue, I'm guessing.
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