I have a D60 and when using my new lighting kit if the aperture is faster than1/200 it creates a blackout across part of the image due to the mirror. Any solutions?

Get the Nikon AS-15

Introduction

Specifications Recommendations

The Nikon D60 is an inexpensive 10 MP DSLR that comes with an excellent 18-55mm VR lens for about $650 as of June 2008. It was a announced in January, 2008, and sold for about $750 with lens in February 2008.

The Nikon D60 is a replacement for the almost identical D40x.

Personally I prefer Nikon's least expensive D40 over the D60 or D40x. The D60, D40x and D40 are actually exactly the same cameras, differering only slightly in their internal electronics, but differing greatly in their prices.

The D60 is actually a D40 body with a few more card-clogging pixels, a VR lens and adaptive dynamic range, but a slower maximum shutter speed with flash.

The D60 is less sensitive to light then the D40 (its default ISO is only ISO 100 compared to the D40's default ISO of 200). Its less sensitive to light because the pixels have to be made smaller to cram more of them into the same-sized sensor. Smaller pixels collect fewer photons than larger pixels. Since the D60 is half as light sensitive, the D60 has to use twice as long a shutter speed or a larger aperture, which makes it more likely to make a blurry picture than the D40. OOPS!

Save your money and get the D40 instead. The D40's faster sync speed is invaluable for use with flash outdoors, and the extra light sensitivity in normal use will help make sharper pictures. These three cameras (D40, D40x, D60) otherwise, for most users, are identical. Compare them in person and you'll see. Megapixels don't matter.

(I detail the few fine points which are new in the D60 further below.)

I had my hands on a D60 back in January 2008. The D60 is an excellent camera, but for most of the people who will buy it, it's the same thing as the $300 less expensive D40. I'd suggest getting a D40 and putting the $300 towards more lenses and/or a bouncable flash.

In fact, the faster flash sync speed (the fastest shutter speed with flash) is more than twice as fast in the D40 (1/500 vs. 1/200), and along with the faster base ISO, the D40 is more likely to make sharper photos for most people, for hundreds of dollars less!

The only significant feature in the D60 over the D40x and D40 is adaptive dynamic range. The D60 does not have any of the other next-generation functionality of the D3 and D300.

The D60 is just a D40 with more pixels, but slower shutter speeds with flash outdoors and less basic light sensitivity due to the smaller pixels needed to jam more of them onto the same-sized sensor.

I make excellent 12 x 18" (30 x 50 cm) prints from my 6 MP D40; do you plan to print bigger? Really? The resolution makes no difference unless I'm printing at 20 x 30" (60 x 80 cm) or more.

Since the D60 costs $300 more than the D40, I'd much rather have a D40, 1/500 flash sync for better daylight fill-flash range, a minimum ISO of 200 and $300 left over to buy lenses and an external flash that I can bounce for better lighting. For instance, the D40, 55-200mm VR and SB-400 is a far better way to spend the same $750.

Set the aperture to its smallest opening (largest f/number) and lock it. You can control the aperture from the camera, the same way you do it on a lens without an aperture ring.

basketball game is a fast moving object which is hard to take the picture perfectly sometimes

always using a flash, or external flash for more lighting support, set the shutter at about 1/80 or faster, ISO setting is 400 to avoid darker result, the Aperture should be set at the biggest number such as f 1,4

hope this advice help you

The exposure mode needs to be on Manual.

If the pictures are coming out overexposed, you need to close the aperture (larger f/numbers) and/or use a faster shutter speed and/or lower the ISO setting. The exact settings will depend on the light.

That's impossible, due to the limited amount of light. There are several things you can do to reduce the blur, but you're not going to eliminate it completely.

To start with, set the ISO as high as you can. It will increase the noise, so you may want to back down the ISO---it's your call.

Set the camera's mode dial to Aperture-priority (A). Turn the command dial to get the maximum aperture (smallest f/number). This will give you the fastest shutter speed under the conidtions.

Unfortunately, as I stated earlier, that won't eliminate blur completely. You can reduce it a little more by using a faster lens, but one of those will set you back $2000 or so.

Mirror lenses have no aperture nor AF, so they mount via a T mount. A $30 item that screws on the end of a mirror lens that fits your camera. A mirror lens has it's physical likes and dislikes against a glass 500mm. A glass 500mm will give a better image if you can stop down to F8 F16. Then you have shutter speeds to consider and those lenses are usually connected to the camera's contacts. So they can be specific to a single body. There are older Tamron lenses that take Adaptall mounts, they are old and hard to find. But they solved the multiple body problems for "auto" program lenses. None had AF, when AF camera around, we were back to individual lenses per body.

You are dealing with "depth of field", or simply put (?), the range from near to far of an image that appears in focus. To increase the depth of focus, the camera must be set to a smaller aperture (higher numbered). Using a wider angle lens helps also. Focusing on the mid-point (near to far range) will also increase the apparent focus range. This is one of the most complicated photographic issues, and much has been written about it. Google "depth of field" for about 4 million explanations.

it would depend on the lighting. you can lower down your shutter speed, or change the white-balance or aperture on the camera. make sure that your camera is set on manual. hit me back on the results.