Honeywell humidistat stuck

As long as the humidifier start/stop is regulated by air flow there is no way to cycle it on/off with another device. If, however you disconnect that capability and, instead wire it to the heat on cool on switch it will only turn on when the stat calls for heating or cooling. You may need to install an intermediate relay off the stat wires to regulate the different(assuming that they are) voltage of the humidifier start/stop.What a fun project, thanks!

The owner's manual for the 1f82-0261 heat pump thermostat is available here: http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/honeywell/1f82-0261-thermostat.htm . Look for the link to Additional product information.

The direct link is http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/manuals/1F82-0261Manual.pdf . The operation section starts on page 6. A second site with the manual is http://www.emersonclimate.com/Documents/White-Rodgers/instruction_sheets/0037-7022.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

That 's a really good idea. My question would be is that a two wire humidistat? If it is. you would have to parallel the wires. One wire on the "R" on the thermostat and the other would go on "Y" and jumper to "G". Really interesting , I would like to know if it works. I live in Okla. and we have real high humidity summers but probably not like Florida. Hope this helps you.

If you are leaving for SUMMER, definitely do not need to set at 65, that would be tremendous waste of energy. Humidistat in summer should be off. I wonder if he thought you would be gone during winter.

Check for a fuse in your AC/Heating system either on the control board or in-line on a wire. Make sure the wires are correct to the thermostat.

It's a little unusual to add a humidifier in Florida. The ambient humidity is usually high enough.

But anyway, if you want to do this and assuming you have central air with forced air heating, you could install the humdifier in a standard configuration, then use a sail switch or differential pressure switch in the supply air duct to turn the humidifier off or on when you are in the heating mode only. The sail or differential switch will ensure that the unit can't run unless air is moving and you can tie the humidistat in to the first heat stage.

I have only seen one Honeywell thermostat that would work with a 3-wire heating system.

I would replace it with a White-Rodgers 1F80-0471. They are about $100, but they are a good thermostat, and they work well with the 3-wire zone valves.

Most other thermostats have the "Y" terminal that you need, but do not control the zone valve correctly.

Helping Hands Services
- Fairbanks, Alaska -

usually you should have 4 or 5 wires....if you have AC then this wire should be Y if not was it connected at all before?...Heating requires only R&W

check wiring to furnace check wire hook ups on board match letters and colors sometimes installer use what ever wiring they chose on letters

In order of probability:
1) (incorrect wiring) Make sure that humidistat is in SERIES wired with the furnace.
2) (shorted wires) Check that two wires to humidistat are not touching...use your glasses if you need them!
3) (bad humidistat) disconnect the humidistat and put an ohmmeter accoss the two terminals when it is turned on you should read 0 ohms, and when off it should read infinate ohms, if not pass both these tests, you need new humidistat.
That is it, there are no other possibilites!