Hi, We've had this dishwasher for the past 15 years and all was fine up to this morning. Luckily, we were in the kitchen when it happened as we were able to quickly shut the house's main water valve. Water was flowing out of the door as water was always coming in from the water valve's pipe. It made a mess but we were able to minimize it. If we had been out to work, the water would have destroyed our basement which we just renovated.
What part does control the water level? The float appears to be working fine and by advancing the cycle I was able to evacuate the water out of the tub. Should I bring in a tech or can I solve this by myself?
There are three common causes for water leaking from a dishwasher door or float.
1. A problem with the wash system. Check the wash arms for cracks and or splits in the underside that can cause water to jet down and out the front of the unit. Check all water supply tubing in the unit as this can cause the same problem.
2. It is not uncommon for a water inlet valve to fail open and allow too much water into the tank causing a leak.
3. Over sudsing can cause a leak. Make sure fresh dishwasher detergent is used in moderation.
Go here for Maytag Dishwasher Parts: http://www.repairclinic.com/Maytag-Dishwasher-Parts
www.RepairClinic.com
Hi
If the water inlet
valve is fine and it fills with water then the issue seems to be with the float
switch assembly that is bad and should be replaced. Float assembly is found
inside the dishwasher's tub, on the bottom. The water that fills the dishwasher
lifts the float, and when it reaches a certain level, it acts as a trigger for
the float switch. The float triggers the float switch to shut off, thereby
shutting off the flow of water into the dishwasher. A defective switch may
interfere with dishwasher's filling and/or draining ability. Use voltmeter to
test the switch. Set the device to the ohms setting x 1. Take each probe and
touch them to one switch terminal each. This should produce a reading of either
zero or infinity. Continue to touch the probes to the terminals, and press down
on the switch's button. The reading should change to the opposite extreme. If
the switch fails either of these tests, you should replace it. Hope this helps...please post back for
further assistance.
Daniel
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Hi,
Thanks for your feedback/suggestions. I think there is more to my problem than the issues you pointed at which are all legitimate items.
After removing the toe panel, I noticed there is extensive rust on the "water level switch bracket" and "float palnut" ( this wording comes for the electronic catalogue on your site). For some reason the engineers placed that "float palnut" close enough to the bracket for the rust to cause enought friction to stop the float to do it's job of stoping the switch to turn off the water at the proper moment. Believe me, when I opened the door because of the water leaking on both sides of the door, the wate level was at least 5 inches above the element. There was way too much water in there. I had to take a bucket to remove it.
From your experience or the experience of other experience field techs:
1- is that a common problem ( rusting of these two parts)?
2- is a sanding/painting (rust inhibitor paint) enough to correct this problem?
3- should I simply replace these two parts?.
4- is there other issues I should be made aware of ( i.e. could the rust not be a major issue, but the switch gone bad, etc)?
Thanks for a promt answer as you did the first time. Your help is very much appreciatated.
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