Hatco c 12

Copy following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-blowing-breaker.html

Hatco booster heater typically has 2 sets of thermostats and elements located on each end of heater.
Both sides might be controlled by same 60 amp breaker, or the heater might be controlled by two separate 30 amp breakers.
Be sure you have correct wire and breaker.

After reading steps on link above, add comment and say if this is new installation, or older installation that suddenly started throwing breaker.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) You want simultaneous operation.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html#simultaneous

2) Installation REQUIRES bigger circuit breaker and bigger wire.
Or 2 circuit breakers and 2 wires
Or change both elements to 2000 watt.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

3) MUST add ECO-protected thermostat to lower part of tank.

4) Warranty will be void.

5) If tank is rusted, the added heat and expansion could hasten rupture.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

6) As general rule, the health department will not allow this tank conversion for restaurant code to meet dish washing consumption unless manufacturer certifies tank.
But manufacturer will not certify ordinary residential water heater for commercial simultaneous application. Commercial simultaneous tanks can cost 2-4 thousand so they can meet restaurant code and deliver sustained high temperatures for washing dishes.

6) Also consider Hatco booster heater for commercial dish washing.
This type heater has 2 sets of non-simultaneous elements to heat large tank of hot water.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

that is in the control cicut the contactor might be bad and taking out cntrl fuse.unhook contactor control voltage by unplugging from contactor tape off the two wires put new fuse in turn on power if fuse does not blow replace contactor.if it does blow you will have to isolate the next thing in the control circut maybe the light.you can buy resetable 1amp circut breakers at grainger for test purposes.sometimes on people I know I will wire in those breakers for them no more buying fuses.

It has kick the breaker in the fuse box or it has a reset on the unit its self,reset it.if that does not fix the problem,you will have to replace the unit with a new one.

yes the unit will need to be fed with hot water to work correctly.It has a rise if you want your rinse 180 then you will need to feed the booster with hotter water if fed with cold water it will not keep up under high demand usage.

Thanks for your reply. The order in which you connect the wires 1-2-3 does not matter, all three terminal block screws will accept any one of the hot wires from the breaker, one hot wire per each terminal screw.

I beleive that would be fine.the only reason phase would make a difference is if it had a motor in it.If you hook up a three phase mtr and it runs clockwise to make it run counterclockwise all you have to do is switch two of the three legs.If you hook it up 123 ,132,213 it will be fine. just make sure connections are tight and you have a ground.

Try Rick at Restaurant Parts and More in Ohio. Have model and serial number. He's pretty good at getting stuff like that and he reasonable on prices. I'm in Ga. and I have a 3 day turn around on anything I order from him. He's a straight shooter too. If he can't help you he'll try to find some one who can.

Under normal and regular operation Hatco recommends that the unit be turned on at all times.
If the booster heater will not be used for an extended period of time or will be exposed to freezing conditions it should be drained to prevent damage to the unit.