Model CWL11
It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and
is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is
important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the
identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has
leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the
underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here.
In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the
house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside.
Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose
on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the
drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can
leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this
will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end. Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html Replacing Door seal: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1464/how-to-replace-the-door-seal-on-a-washing-mac.html
SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis Top Load MAV6250AWW Drum Leak?
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW612 Top Loading Washing
Hi there
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.
first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.
Nick
SOURCE: my fisher and paykel pride top load washing machine
Sounds like timer/controller is having problems--replace same.
SOURCE: My HE2 front loading washing machine smells
remove the front bottom panel.
there is a trap down there just before the pump. mine was a cylinder with a handle to unscrew the cap/filter.
clean this out every 6 months..
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