Goodman Gas Heating A/GPG13 Not Heating - Pressure Switch Stuck Open
Model: GPG13360901AC
When the thermostat turns the heat on, the induced draft blower turned on, but nothing else happened. The LED was flashing two times indicating...
"Pressure Switch Stuck Open".
I messed with the hose a little (connected to the pressure switch), and that did nothing. I then flicked the pressure switch a few times with my finger, and it magically started working.
Is this an indication of a faulty pressure switch... or is there something else I should/could look into? Since then, it's been working - turning on/off 3-4 times. But I'd like to make sure the problem is absolutely fixed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not sure if this is related, but another issue that is occurring (happened about 12 hours after the "Pressure Switch Stuck Open" error), is the thermostat comes on for heat, and the fan turns on, and I feel the air blowing in the vents, but there's no heat. So I go outside to take off the panel and take a look, and as soon as I unscrew the evaporator/control access panel, the flames turn on. This has also happened before (weeks ago) when I opened the panel that contains the air intake. I also wanted to mention this unit was installed 2-3 years ago and just replaced the thermostat in December (2012). It has been running fine until this season.I'm not sure if this is related, but another issue that is occurring (happened about 12 hours after the "Pressure Switch Stuck Open" error), is the thermostat comes on for heat, and the fan turns on, and I feel the air blowing in the vents, but there's no heat. So I go outside to take off the panel and take a look, and as soon as I unscrew the evaporator/control access panel, the flames turn on. This has also happened before (weeks ago) when I opened the panel that contains the air intake. I also wanted to mention this unit was installed 2-3 years ago and just replaced the thermostat in December (2012). It has been running fine until this season.
This occurred again last night. After a warm day of no use, the heat turned on last night (or attempted to). However, the fan was just blowing air into the house. The burners didn't turn on. The unit doesn't run long in this situation. So after the fan has turned off for about the 3rd time, I opened the control access panel and noticed the LED is flashing once: 'External Lockout'. I then went inside to turn the unit off from the thermostat, and turned it back on. Went back to watch the unit attempt to fire up the burners after the induced draft blower is running, but notice the LED is flashing two times again. I flicked the pressure switch, and the burners ignite. Unless anyone has another suggestion, I'm leaning towards a faulty Pressure Switch?This occurred again last night. After a warm day of no use, the heat turned on last night (or attempted to). However, the fan was just blowing air into the house. The burners didn't turn on. The unit doesn't run long in this situation. So after the fan has turned off for about the 3rd time, I opened the control access panel and noticed the LED is flashing once: 'External Lockout'. I then went inside to turn the unit off from the thermostat, and turned it back on. Went back to watch the unit attempt to fire up the burners after the induced draft blower is running, but notice the LED is flashing two times again. I flicked the pressure switch, and the burners ignite. Unless anyone has another suggestion, I'm leaning towards a faulty Pressure Switch?
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Gas furnaces has safety features to prevent explosions. If anything is thought to be faulty, nothing works. All gas appliances must be repaired by a registered gas technician. The two pressure switches are $76 and $29 if you want to risk it.
Youcould be loking at the pressure switch try jumping it out and see if it lights some times you can fool it in to working , check the hoses are tight and nor spilt or take a drill bit and just clean out the 2 ports where the hoses fit some times they get blocked , also check you air filter is clean and your fan
On the call for heat from the thermostat the inducer should come on first, a pressure switch proves that the inducer is moving enough air up the stack, closes and energizes the ignition and burners come on. 30 to 60 seconds later the blower comes on. Everything should stay on as long as the thermostat is still calling for heat. When the thermostat is satisfied the burner and inducer shut off and the fan will run to remove the heat from the heat exchanger and then shut off. Cycle complete. Some inducers have a post purge so when the thermostat is satisfied the burner shuts off, the inducer runs for 30 seconds or so and then shuts off. I am thinking that your furnace may be running on the limit switch and when the burner is off but the inducer stays on, maybe the limit is shutting of the inducer. Check your air filter and make sure all your heat registers are open and that the return air grill is not blocked.
Improper ground from control to burner. Incorrect electrical wiring, check polarity. Tubing partially clogged between inducer and proving switch.
A sampling of various failure codes on a furnace:
Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.
Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.
Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.
Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.
Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.
Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.
Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.
See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.
Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.
Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.
WRONG!!!! this pressure switch either opens or closes, depends on manufacture, to tell the board that the draft inducer motor is running, if this didnt run and gas light you would probally die of carbon monoxide posioning.
That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve. Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:
Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.
Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.
Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.
Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.
Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.
Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.
Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.
See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.
Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.
Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.
Now here is how it should all go down:
Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with. This will give you an idea where to start I hope.
There is a induced draft motor that will run first to purge the combustion chamber and induce a draft, a pressure switch closes proving an induced draft exists, thus allowing the spark and pilot gas, or hot surface ignitir and gas to pilot rsil and /or burners, a trial period for ignition about 30 seconds each for 3 attempts will be made and if not lit by the 3rd attempt it locks out, requiring a reset of power to unit to reset the module or circuit board etc. 1st see what motors running, is it the flue exhaust motor/induced draft??
The power ventor most likely needs to be replaced. But be advised. Goodman normally will not sell parts to anyone but a certified technician. I had to show my masters certificate to buy parts from their outlet. This is a part that has a high rate of failure.
1
1 FLASH
Furnace fails to operate.
• Integrated control module
diagnostic LED is
flashing ONE (1) flash.
• Furnace lockout due
to an excessive
number of ignition
“retries” (3 total)1.
• Failure to establish flame.
Cause may be no gas to
burners, front cover
pressure switch stuck open,
bad igniter or igniter
alignment, improper orifices,
or coated/oxidized or
improperly connected flame
sensor.
• Loss of flame after establishment.
Cause may be
interrupted gas supply, lazy
burner flames (improper gas
pressure or restriction in flue
and/or combustion air
piping), front cover pressure
switch opening, or improper
induced draft blower
performance.
• Locate and correct gas
interruption.
• Check front cover
pressure switch
operation (hose, wiring,
contact operation).
Correct if necessary.
• Replace or realign
igniter.
• Check flame sense
signal. Sand sensor if
coated and/or oxidized.
• Check flue piping for
blockage, proper
length, elbows, and
termination.
• Verify proper induced
draft blower performance.
I'm not sure if this is related, but another issue that is occurring (happened about 12 hours after the "Pressure Switch Stuck Open" error), is the thermostat comes on for heat, and the fan turns on, and I feel the air blowing in the vents, but there's no heat. So I go outside to take off the panel and take a look, and as soon as I unscrew the evaporator/control access panel, the flames turn on. This has also happened before (weeks ago) when I opened the panel that contains the air intake. I also wanted to mention this unit was installed 2-3 years ago and just replaced the thermostat in December (2012). It has been running fine until this season.
This occurred again last night. After a warm day of no use, the heat turned on last night (or attempted to). However, the fan was just blowing air into the house. The burners didn't turn on. The unit doesn't run long in this situation. So after the fan has turned off for about the 3rd time, I opened the control access panel and noticed the LED is flashing once: 'External Lockout'. I then went inside to turn the unit off from the thermostat, and turned it back on. Went back to watch the unit attempt to fire up the burners after the induced draft blower is running, but notice the LED is flashing two times again. I flicked the pressure switch, and the burners ignite. Unless anyone has another suggestion, I'm leaning towards a faulty Pressure Switch?
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