How to remove and install fill valve kuds30fxss

Does the water fill during other cycles? How did you confirm the water inlet valve works, through the diagnostic mode or just by applying power? There's a chance it is not providing enough water pressure to trigger the pressure switch (although that would likely cause a diagnostic code).

Press the Cancel/ Drain cycle for a few seconds. The dishwasher should reset itself. See if this makes any difference. Also first turn the mains power to dishwasher off and back on.

try changing the power supply built-in the board.

Here's a link for the repair manual for your dishwasher:
http://www.appliancerepair.net/kitchenaid-dishwasher-repair.html
Concentration should be on Chapter 2 subsection 2-3 "No Fill"
Then go to Chapter 6; subsections 6-2, 6-3, 6-3a, 6-3b, 6-3c, and 6-3h for testing procedures on relays, actuator valves, etc.

SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE
To start the Service Diagnostics Cycle, press the
following keys, in order, in less than 6 seconds, while in standby(power on but unit off):
Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal
To Rapid advance one interval at a time, press the Start key, noting that
unlike Standard cycles, the Diagnostics Cycle automatically resumes
after door openings and does not require pressing Start to resume.

Once the diagnostic cycle has run and shut off, run a normal wash cycle, empty and with no detergent, to reset the control to factory "normal" operation. Make sure there's plenty of hot water.


Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dishwasher-repair/261055-whirlpool-quiet-partner-ii-clean-light-flashing-have-reset-still-flashing.html#ixzz2UOcsE2Yg
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

THat means that something is wrong with the water temp. It is either not hot enough when it fills or the heating element that increases the temp it bad. To start the Service Diagnostics Cycle, press the
following keys, in order, in less than 6 seconds, while in standby(power on but unit off):
Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal
To Rapid advance one interval at a time, press the Start key, noting that
unlike Standard cycles, the Diagnostics Cycle automatically resumes
after door openings and does not require pressing Start to resume.

Once the diagnostic cycle has run and shut off, run a normal wash cycle, empty and with no detergent, to reset the control to factory "normal" operation. Make sure there's plenty of hot water.

Similar Kenmore Dishwasher 665.18664000. Time saver and Quick rinse were the only programs that would run. I pressed "high temp scrub" then "air dry" then "high temp scrub" then "air dry" and the machine went into a diagnostic mode and counted down from 10 while running a series of tests. After about 10 minutes and various test cycles the machine reset and the "normal wash" light had come back on. If this doesn't work then you may have a problem with the controller which other threads have mentioned replacing yourself for about $120.

THAT IS NOT NORMAL!!!!!!! A normal wash and dry cycle will take approx. 2 hours in length including drying cycle.
You should see that water has been present in the machine within the first 2 minutes of the start of the wash cycle, you should also be able to hear the water entering the wash tub.
The fill valve or water supply seems to be the issue, if the water doesn't enter the tub then the controller won't proceed witht the wash cycle. Double check your water supply tube / hose to make sure there is water present at the connection to the dishwasher.
GOOD LUCK !

Whirlpool & Kitchen-Aid
Tall Tub Dishwashers
PROBLEM: STOPPED RUNNING, WILL NOT START AND CLEAN LED BLINKS 7 TIMES, THEN REPEATS (WATER HEATING FAULT)
Control is programmed to stop running and not allow any further
cycles if it detects a water heating problem (no temperature
increase detected in heated Main Wash cycle or in 3 consecutive
cycles on the latest software version). Control blinks the Clean
LED 7 times repeatedly and disables the Start/Resume key until
cleared.
Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it
to operate again. The water heating condition
must be corrected or the control will stop
running again. See potential causes below.
Check If…
Heater circuit problem:
♦ Open heater.
♦ Wire disconnected, open connection or component
in heater circuit.
♦ Faulty heater drive circuit on control.
Then…
1. Check operation of heater in Diagnostics cycle.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
3. Check resistance of heater and all components
and connections in the water heating circuit or heat
dry circuit.
Door switch not making contact consistently:
♦ Misaligned door latch assembly (which can be
aggravated by high door closure force keeping
strike plate from fully seating).
♦ Faulty door switch (high resistance).
♦ Loose or missing installation anchor screws,
causing tank to shift in cut-out.
NOTE: Neutral switch on plastic tub models is only in series with
the heater; other loads are not affected.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Measure resistance of door switch contacts while
checking mechanical operation of latch assembly.
Confirm switches not loose from assembly. Check
strike plate and door closure.
Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently.
• Foreign object in pump
• Excessive foaming
• Clogged pump screen or broken chopper screen
• Loose electrical connection in motor circuit
See Tech Sheet “WASH PUMP WILL NOT PUMP”.
Lack of water to heat. (Unit not filling properly)
• Insufficient water supply pressure
• Fill valve screen blocked or valve not opening fully
• Loose electrical connection on Fill Valve.
• Float switch obstructed or functioning abnormally
See Tech Sheet “WILL NOT FILL OR LOW
WATER”.
Diagnostic Key Dance:
Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or
High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry

HOPE THIS HELP