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Compressor runs and gets hot but does not cool unit
Same basic problem as described by hudson2212 on Aug 26, 2008 in the thread "Where to buy parts for Danby duel zone..."
Also, same general thing as posted by dudley on May 30, 2007 in the thread "Dose not get cold enough?" and by several others.
Basically, the unit sounds like it is running, the compressor runs and gets hot, but I hear no fans running to blow air over the coils and cool the unit. The unit reads as 63/64 and refuses to cool below 60 in either the top or bottom.
From reading through the other postings seems like everyone is having the same basic issue but nobody has a solution. I called my local service shop and they don't handle Danby... Please, if you know the real solution post on this thread so that everyone who gets hit with this common problem will know how to deal with it.
Is it the coolant? Condenser? Circuit Board? Relay?
I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM. MY COMPRESSOR RUNS AND GETS HOT BUT DOES NOT COOL UNIT.WHAT'S WRONG.I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM. MY COMPRESSOR RUNS AND GETS HOT BUT DOES NOT COOL UNIT.WHAT'S WRONG.
I have the same problemand the top fan dosent work. I switched the fan plugs and the fan itself works, so its a control problem...anyone help please.I have the same problemand the top fan dosent work. I switched the fan plugs and the fan itself works, so its a control problem...anyone help please.
The unit no longer cools and compressor is very hot. I noticed that the fan in the lower section is running, but the fan in the upper section is not. I reached around back and touched the compressor and you could have fried an egg on it! I got in contact with a couple appliance repair companies and they will come to your home, diagnose, and fix the problem. Be careful though. I was told by two different companies of a "diagnostic charge". Apparently, this is where these companies make their money. Kinda like "shipping and handling". Ridiculous. Not all are like this though, so be sure and ask. If you e-mail the service department at Danby, they are very good at finding these repair companies in your area. Haven't had the time for them to come out yet....Hope it's not a HUGE problem. Anyone have a similar situation and how much were the repairs?The unit no longer cools and compressor is very hot. I noticed that the fan in the lower section is running, but the fan in the upper section is not. I reached around back and touched the compressor and you could have fried an egg on it! I got in contact with a couple appliance repair companies and they will come to your home, diagnose, and fix the problem. Be careful though. I was told by two different companies of a "diagnostic charge". Apparently, this is where these companies make their money. Kinda like "shipping and handling". Ridiculous. Not all are like this though, so be sure and ask. If you e-mail the service department at Danby, they are very good at finding these repair companies in your area. Haven't had the time for them to come out yet....Hope it's not a HUGE problem. Anyone have a similar situation and how much were the repairs?
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Re: Compressor runs and gets hot but does not cool unit
This product has been discontinued i dont think many danby units are parts supported more likely generic after market parts fitted by air con mechanics do the job relay first might be a thematic one and an compressor motor fan relay then check gas pressure
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
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1. Cooling system - compressor (black "pot" with tubing and wires coming out of it located underneath in the rear - Item 29 below in the top drawing), compressor starting relay 9item 30),temperature control and all connecting refrigerant tubing.
2. Defrost system (if frost free, which yours is) to intermittently shut off the cooling for approx. 30 minutes, turn on a heater to melt off accumulated frost plus a safety stat to prevent overheats.
3. Fan system to circulate the cold air inside the freezer.
So, with the door closed (or holding in the door switch) does the fan run? If not, bad fan or bad door switch or broken wire or ice buildup preventing fan from turning.
Pulling the freezer away from the wall, (carefully) feel of the compressor, is it hot or warm? Very hot means it's trying to start/run but can't, so it gets hotter and hotter. Warm means it is running and should cool. Cold/room temp means it is not running, nor even trying to start.
Once you know those items you can focus in on the problem area: Cooling problem, air circulation problem or defrost problem. Most likely is defrost problem, second (on a Frigidaire) is a running and trying to cool, but low on refrigerant (leak) and then perhaps a bad compressor relay or fan. Some of these units also had issues with the control module (item 166 in the bottom graphic) and would not supply power to the compressor.
Basically, find out what works, isolate the problem to one of the three basic areas of function, then drill down to the specific item. It's the classic decision tree from school. A basic volt/ohm meter ($20-$40) is a great tool for tracking down these problems. Good luck.
Many Amana model fridges have the freezer fan wired through the bi-metal thermostat that is clipped to the evaporator. Either your compressor has a bad start device and that is why it is not cooling, or the compressor IS running and the unit has lost its refrigerant charge. Running compressor with no cooling = buy a new fridge.
Compressor hot, but not running = start relay replacement to get the compressor going. Start Device 8201786
When the compressor is running at least the freezer fan should be on and if not also the evaporator fan in the fresh food section should be running when it calls for cold air but basically anytime the compressor runs the fans should be running all of .them. a lot of times when there's a problem with the start relay and run capacitor on the compressor d external and internal fans will not come on what you need to do is find out if the compressor is getting hot and not running Appliance 911 Sea Breeze
Hi William, The belt that you describe is not timing related or oil pump related, these items are controlled by a timing chain, which is not exposed.
The damage that you describe sounds like the unit got quite hot.
The things that your electrinics do in an overheat is stop firing some cylinders, to lower the temperature.
The nortstar has head bolt issues relating to overheat. In essence the headbolts are screwed into the aluminum block, and those threads pull out. The repair is extremely expensive to do correctly. Just changing head gaskets is a very short term bandaid.... The damaged threads need a threadsert installed, and you have to put a bare block on a machinists bench for that job....just plain ugly....To test for this issue, check for exhaust fumes in the cooling system....Compression gasses push coolant out, heater stops, and eventual overheat, top up with coolant, everything okay until next compression leak event.....
If compressor is running and it gets hot and the unit does not cool the compressor is bad or you have a leak in the system. if you see oil there's a leak.
On my GE side by side (model GSS20IEMDWW), the evaporator coils froze over due to constant running of the compressor. The compressor was constantly running due to a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side of the unit. The sensor was apparently reading too hot, thus never signalling the computer that it should stop trying to cool.
This could be what the original poster was attempting to describe.
The high side/low side pressure equalization you describe is normal for a compressor sitting idle.
If you have an ohm meter you can check the compressor windings for opens and shorts. If your compressor is 3 phase as you state (this would be very unusual for a residential unit) you should have continuity across all 3 phases and no continuity to ground. Take the compressor out of the circuit before you check.
If the compressor does have crankcase heat, it should have been left on for at least 24 hours before starting the unit. Another cause for failure could be overcharging which could have resulted in refrigerant slugging back to the compressor.
Does the unit have any low or high pressure control safeties? If so, check them too - some have resets. You said the condenser fan ran so it's not likely the breaker blew, but check anyway and also check to make sure you have available power on all 3 phases.
YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,
I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM. MY COMPRESSOR RUNS AND GETS HOT BUT DOES NOT COOL UNIT.WHAT'S WRONG.
I have the same problemand the top fan dosent work. I switched the fan plugs and the fan itself works, so its a control problem...anyone help please.
The unit no longer cools and compressor is very hot. I noticed that the fan in the lower section is running, but the fan in the upper section is not. I reached around back and touched the compressor and you could have fried an egg on it! I got in contact with a couple appliance repair companies and they will come to your home, diagnose, and fix the problem. Be careful though. I was told by two different companies of a "diagnostic charge". Apparently, this is where these companies make their money. Kinda like "shipping and handling". Ridiculous. Not all are like this though, so be sure and ask. If you e-mail the service department at Danby, they are very good at finding these repair companies in your area. Haven't had the time for them to come out yet....Hope it's not a HUGE problem. Anyone have a similar situation and how much were the repairs?
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