Putting the roller brush back together

Hello, this is Ava with Think Crucial.

There are a number of reasons why your brush roller has stopped moving. General maintenance to your vacuum is crucial and will help it work at peak performance.

First things first lets focus on the brush roller. Unplug the vacuum and turn it on its side. Look for any noticeable clumps of debris or hair strands that may be caught in the brush roller. Remove these obstructions, probably best to do so with a scissor if it's hair or long pieces of carpet fibers. After removing the debris try manually rotating the brush roller to uncover other hidden clogs. Another thing to take note of is the condition of the bristles on the roll itself. Are they loose or worn down? These are signs that your brush roller is in need of replacing.

While checking out your brush roll you might as well take a look at your vacuums belt. Your belt should be replaced about every three months. After regular usage, the belt will stretch out, lessening the tension on the brush roller. Lesser tension diminishes the brush roller's turn rate and speed. If the belt feels loose then it certainly is affecting your vacuums suction as well as your brush roll not moving at all.

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I hope this was helpful.

Ava B.
Think Crucial Customer Care
http://www.thinkcrucial.com/

Usually belts do not come off unless something is worn. If your
Riccar is used heavily or is over 5-10 old (depending on use) it may have a worn pivot point or motor mount. Both are inexpensive parts that will wear after years of use. If your belt is over 6-12 months old it may have lost elasticity. The brush roll end cap must be installed in the proper position and the clutch activation lever must be installed properly to work properly. You have a very durable long lasting vacuum but it does need occasional service to work properly. It may save money in the long run to have it serviced by your dealer if it's been a while.

Your belt is broken and needs to be replaced. Turn this brush side up. Unscrew the cover plate and you will see where the belt goes. Pull out roller, put on new belt, put back together and there you go.

Wait, there are two more screws that must be removed before the top shell will come off. They are located under the wheels. Pop the wheels out by simply inserting yoru finger or a small tool into the wheel and pulling straight up. Remove those two screws and then you can proceed as mentioned above.
When reassembling the head, if the shell does not snap back onto the base, check for plastic chips or other debris in the narrow slots on the underside of the shell. Clear these slots out and the head should easily snap back together.

Turn your vacuum over and remove 6 screws holding down the cover plate which has the roller brush under it. Remove cover plate and pull up on brush. Belt will come off with the brush. Put back together in reverse order with new belt.

Yeah, it’s annoying that the manual doesn’t give more detailed instructions and drawings to help with this, because you do have to take the roller assembly apart sometimes to clean built-up carpet lint off the unit properly. If you don’t do this, I’d expect you’d have more problems.

I have a different model number Bissell Proheat than yours. Yours may have different parts or go together differently than mine, but I'll tell you how I do it on mine and you can try my way out and see if it helps you.

(In all cases where I use left vs. right or front vs. back, as when these terms are used with a car, I am facing the front of the Bissell. I am NOT behind the Bissell, where I would stand when cleaning carpet with it.)


Here's how I put it together. This takes much longer to describe than to do, once you figure out where everything goes and you get the hang of doing it!

Attach the left arm with the two silver rods (ONLY attach the left arm here-- leave the corresponding right arm, which looks like the left arm except it has no silver rods, off the bottom unit of the Bissell, for now) to the left side of the Bissell, with a silver screw with a built-in washer. The screw hole is on the back end of the arm and the arm dips down towards the front of the Bissell and holds the two brushes in position so that they can turn without striking the top of the underside of the Bissell or dragging on the floor.

Put a small silver washer on each long, silver metal post, where the roller brushes will go, and slide it all the way to the left.

Put the larger rubber belt around both metal posts, about halfway to two-thirds of the way down the metal posts.

Slide the brushes halfway down the metal posts and attach the larger rubber belt to the cog wheel on the left side of each roller brush. Then slide both roller brushes with the large rubber belt attached all the way to the left so that the cog wheels are against the inside of the left arm. As you move the roller brushes almost all the way to the left, you may be blocked from reaching the end until you carefully work the rubber belt around a plastic flange on the inside of the left arm, but do this and be sure the roller brushes are up against the inside of the left arm. Make sure the rubber belt is still on each of the cog wheels when the roller brushes are pushed all the way left. If you turn one roller brush, the other should turn, too, because of the belt attached to both cog wheels.

Put the small belt around the small cog wheel on the bottom unit of the Bissell behind the right end of the back roller brush, and also around the cog wheel on the right end of the back roller brush. (The right cog wheel on the front roller brush is the only one of five cog wheels without a belt, when everything is assembled correctly.)

Put a small silver washer on the right end of the silver rod passing through the back roller brush.

NOW attach the right arm, using a silver screw with a washer, to the middle screw hole on the right side of the bottom unit of the Bissell. The right arm should mirror the left arm, so that the two arms hold both roller brushes in position on the right side and straight across the bottom unit of the Bissell. It is normal for the roller brushes and arms to be able to flex up and down a bit, when everything is put together correctly. The built-in washers on the silver screws which attach the arms keep the arms and roller brushes in the generally correct position but allow them to flex.

Now using your fingers you should be able to slowly spin the roller brushes without the brushes contacting the top of the bottom unit of the Bissell and without dragging too low against the floor. Check one more time and be sure the belts are positioned correctly around four of the five cog wheels.

If everything seems right, attach the two side covers. These are not interchangeable; the left cover only fits on the left. The short black screw goes in the back screw hole, and the long black screw goes in front.

Then attach the front cover. It's important to be careful that the hooks on the front cover are inside the side cover holes designed to hold the hooks before trying to tighten the last screw through the tab on top of the front cover. If you aren't careful about this, it's easy for the front cover to be out of position or to break its tab.

Try powering up the Bissell and see if the rollers spin correctly. Remember that the handle must not be locked upright and the trigger must be depressed with the Bissell turned on before the roller brushes will spin. (Sometimes people complain that nothing happens with the unit turned on and the trigger depressed when the only problem is that the handle is in the locked upright position.)

Good luck!

On the belt end, there is a clip #59 to remove then you can take the brush roll apart, replace the brush strips and put it back together.

Sure can,

You have two choices,
1.) To use your shampoo attachment, you'll need the fluffer shield, To set up the attachment seperate the tray assembly (the part that holds the roller brush) from the nozzle assembly (the part that attaches to the machine). Now seperate the roller brush from the tray (easiest way is to pull the belt). Insert the roller brush into the fluffer shield (it only goes one way). Insert the fluffer shield with the roller brush installed into the nozzle assembly the plastic shield will be faced towards the front of the machine. Turn belt lifter to where the red arrows match and attach to the front of the machine. Turn belt lifter to where the green arrows match and you should be in business.

2.) Your using the floor buffing attachment it the easiest method just put on like the floor nozzle (thing you vacuum with).

I just fixed mine. It took me all of 10 minutes. Pull the brush out. Stand the brush on end on the edge of your study work bench/table top. while holding the brush vertical( on end) take a small phillips screwdriver and tap using a hammer on the metal pin you see in the middle of the brush. Keep tamping and the whole assembly will come apart. What you will have then is a long metal shaft, 2 bearings(they are acutally skateboard wheel bearings same number same make). Clean the gobbed up hair with a razor blade and then reassemble by tapping back together. The bearing wont be worn out because they are way too tough for a vaccum. We used ride down hills on them! a ten minute fix wow and you wont have to drive to vacuum shop and spend $$ and time

what probably happened is you swapped end over end when you replaced the beater brush. anyway go to thehooverstore, find your machine and you'll see an exloded diagram of your machine.