Light panel does not light up
SOURCE: panel light is out
There is a capacitor on the clock board labelled C3. It will probably have brown burns on it or "syrup" leaking around the base. You can buy a box of 10 of these for 75 cents at Radio Shack (make sure you match the label on the old capacitor, I think it's 58mf and 35V but I could be wrong) and a pencil soldering iron for $10. It's held on with 2 little wires. Before taking it off note capacitor orientation (where the blue +++ stripe is), the replacement has to go on the same way. Common problem and easy fix.
SOURCE: No display, No beeps, No heat
I was able to fix my problem by pushing the setup button and holding for about 10 sec.No where in the manual is this described. I call Jenn air and all they could suggest is that I checked the power supply!
SOURCE: lower electric wall oven won't heat up
It is highly likely that your heating element is open so I would ( with power removed) verify the integrity of the element by detaching it and making sure it is not elecltrically OPEN, It is nothing more than a big power resistor that when current is flowing,..gets hot but if it becomes open.. you will not have any curent flow thru it ( or heat generated from it). That would be the first place I would look.. It could also be the control that feeds it..
A few ideas to check..
Regards,
Rick
SOURCE: Jenn-Air JJW8530 LCD panel does not light up
BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor.
The display board apparently has a weak spot in the design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources)
Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them.
TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.
My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, Using as small a soldering iron as you can find De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed.
If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to [email protected] and I’ll try to help.
Good luck.
Thanks for this site..
Link to Photo sequence of capacitor replacement (Captions still will not link):
http://picasaweb.google.com/dltatsjc/Photos?authkey=Gv1sRgCJPKv9CRgsXxNA
SOURCE: The control panel display light is completely dark
A lot of ovens use a gas-filled vacuum flourescent display module that takes a higher voltage to drive it. The modules can get damaged or the power supply for the higher voltage (usually around 50 volts) may have failed.
Chances are the thing is only sold as an assembly...While the displays are common in auto speedometers that have digital display, those for these ovens are special with wpecial characters and background.
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