Coleman 7000w gen. I have 120 on only one side of my 240 plug. I disconnected wire assembly from control box.. Could get 120 out of various combinations of the 4 wires but never 240. Should I be able to? Trying to determine if problem is at generator or control box. Thanks

First, I'm not a Coleman Tech.
* First check the generator for a wire(s) output description. This will confirm what each wire is producing and where it should be connected to.
* The specs will also give you an idea of what to expect from a particular generator. (Don't expect 220Volts from a 120 Volt small generator.. Hence the 120 VAC generator will only have 3 wires instead of 4 wires for a 220-240 Volt generator. DC/AC generator will have 5-6 wires.)
* In general, on/off switch on the electrical part of the generator (the actual electric source) is on once the engine is up and running. Electricity is being produced at this time. The on/off switch is usually the main electrical breaker that is rated for the full output of the generator. This is very similar to your house breakers except for a modification of the hook up terminals used to wire in this safety component. Like most breakers there is an input(s) then output(s). Usually the input lines will be black, white, with an additional green wire that is also connected to the frame of the generator. These three wires will hook up to one side of the breaker or the "Line In" side or "L1,L2" The other side of the breaker should have been hooked up directly to the 1 or 2 duplex (120VAC) outlet panel.
* on larger generators that produce 120/240 VAC 1PH (two 120 volt AC outputs with alternative 220-240 volt AC) There will be an additional wire that may be the same or different color IE; 2 Blacks, Reds, or Blues. This is hooked up in similar fashion to the breaker except there will be an additional section to the breaker or even two single breakers stuck together with a bar across both switches. (again similar to a 220 VAC breaker used in a house panel.) The extra wire will go to the 2nd section of the breaker. The other side or "output" of the breaker will be wired directly to a set of Duplex outlets (a pair or 4 outlets) AND a 4 pronged 120/240 1PH outlet "Twist Lock" style. (though you may find specialized outlets for single purpose generators.)
* Larger generators may also have a DC (12 or 24 VDC) wire which is of a different color from the AC wires. Expect it to be Black, Red, or White. (Black or white is probably the negative with the Red as positive.) If you do have DC wires then it's more than likely the AC wires are of different colors to avoid getting the DC mixed up with the AC side.
* Final; check your warranty. Have your vendor or MFR perform a service and annual maintenance check which is a good idea as they can change out your air and fuel filters. Check and clean the spark plug. Make sure everything is working properly. The peace of mind is worth it.
Aloha, ukeboy57

Maybe this new motor is a multi voltage motor meaning it could work with 240 volts and also 120.
If needed for 120 then you used the common .if 240 you don't need it .
Most of the time wiring diagram is on the motor itself

1) Match wire and breaker:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

2) 7000 watts divided by 240 volts = 29.1 amps.
30 amp breaker x 80% safe maximum = 24 amps.
This means you should use 8 gauge wire and 40 amp double pole breaker for 240volt

3) 7000 watts divided by 120 volt = 58.3 amps.
60 amp breaker x 80% safe maximum = 48 amps.
So use 70 amp breaker and #4 wire.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The capacitor has no bearing as you have output on one leg. Take or have an electrician check the power from L1 to N and L2 to N right as it comes off the generator stator, before any breakers and receptacles. If you have no power still on one leg, the stator is bad. The rotor is fine as you indicate you have power on one leg, you may have lost one set of windings in sthe stator. Good Luck

Hi,
Yes, you killed the diodes in the generator...they can be replaced by a generator repair shop... happens all the time...

heatman101

Transfer switches normally use 220-240v and split the voltages inside the transfer box internal wiring.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

Your RPM's are too high. There is no voltage regulator in coleman generators (generator is actually made by generac) and is 100% dependent on engine speed. There is a screw under the tank when your looking in from the recoil side. It controls the governor arm. Screw it in and it incresses the rpm, out decrease. Plug something in that draws a decent load while setting the rpms since you want it to put out 120 and 240 underload. Your idle voltage does not matter.

there should be a switch to chane over

Assuming there is nothing wrong with the generator, I'm not sure what the Amp rating on a 1 hp compressor is, but starting currents can be 5 or more times the rated current, especially for starting heavy loads like compressors. While the motor only needs it for a short time, if it doesn't get it, it ain't gonna start. If you really need to run this compressor off this generator, one possible solution is to see if the compressor motor has connections inside to wire it for 240 volt operation. I realize in theory you should have available the same full power rating from the generator at 120 v and 240 v. However, many times a motor will still start more easily on 240 than 120, for the same reason that automobile starters went from 6 volt to 12 volt. If you do change the voltage to 240, BE SURE TO CHANGE THE POWER CORD AND PLUG ON THE COMPRESSOR!!!

As a side note, I have one of these generators I purchased as "refurbished", and it is flakey. It works, mostly, but not exactly right. I'm working on it. So anything COULD be wrong.

Hey steve. do you really need 240 volts for 120 v. circuits. the reason you have to have an adaptor plug is because on your 220 volt plug in , 2 of tthose prongs are hot and 1 is ground. for safety you need to get a plug adapter ( a regular 120 volt plug end ) run a ground from adapter to ground on 220 adapter. same with nuetral. you also need to ground your generator. there is usaully a ground lug on the bottom of the gen. Another way. if you dont really need 220 v. is to use both 120v. recepticals on gen. Run 2 chords to tranf. switch. and hard wire it in to switch. another way i did mine . when i lost power in this hurricane. i ran two # 10 chords from my 2 120v. recept on my gen to my breaker panel. when you do this you have to pull the service meter, if you dont when power comes back on it would backfeed through your gen.then i turn all my 220v. breakers i was able to run lights ,ciling fans, freezer, ice box,washing machine and gas dryer , tv's computors etc. . but to do this, you probably need someone that knows what they are doin.