I have a frigidaire side by side model number FRS6LR5EM8 purchased November 2006. The freezer was not getting cold enough, pulled off interior panel and noticed a lot of frost around the coils, looks like a radiator. I since replaced the thermostat and heater to hopefully fix the auto defrost. It is freezing right back up at the top of the coils. It is a coil line that is about 3/8 inch is diameter runs through some black putty packet that connects to a small copper wire that has frost on it also. The line runs back to the back of the freezer. I am not going there without any further instructions from a pro. Compressor, freon, timer/control board. Help my food is going bad.
The auto defrost (evaporation system) has a solenoid that start fan, check if the fan starts , if not replace evap system.
You find replacements and schematics here.
Turn the defrost timer one full turn using a flat blade screwdriver. Also, take the skin off the indside where you saw the tubes going into the coils. Where the tubes go through the cabinet, look for air holes. If a mouse got up inside, or the putty came loose, you will be sucking room air into the coils and it will make it ice over and you won't get proper cooling.
I have a few questions. the frost build up you see is it very heavy or light? does the frost completely cover the evaporator coil? have temps ever returned to normal since you replaced the defrost thermostat?
If you can answer these for me I think I can give you a solution or at least a diagnosis. thanks peyton
It's 1 of 5 things
And to clear up a few things up.
It has nothing
I had the exact same problem with my Whirlpool. On the inside of the fridge is a fan at the top of it, what you need to do is get someone to repair the fan in it which blows out the cool air to keep it cool. Just ask around about it and talk about the fan, they'll know.
You are losing freon somewhere.when you get frost on the coils it means you have a freon leak somewhere i would suggest calling a repairman but im not sure they can repair it
They r two seprate parts.timer and thermostat are two seperate parts.
The small line that runs to the rear goes the the expansion valve-this tells the expansion valve how much freon to push through. However I do not think this is your problem. Simply enough I believe you have a bad door seal. This is allowing humidity into the freezer and thus causing the freeze up. Auto defrost will not be able to keep up with a bad seal.
Defrost timer - this is a timer motor controlled device, it will shut the fridge off and put the fridge into the defrost mode at a pre-determined time depending on make and manufactures. The timer also makes the fridge come back out of defrost and puts normal running back on. Defrost thermostat - this allows the defrost heater to heat up to a certain temp and then shuts the defrost heater back off.
The defrost thermostat can be found in the evaporator coils. This is a bimetal switch used to open the electric circuit to the defrost heater once a set temperature is reached. The defrost cycle will continue until the timer advances into the cooling cycle, however the heater will no longer be energized. This thermostat will reset to a closed position once a set colder temperature is again reached. May also be called a defrost limit switch.
The defrost heater - this is a electric heater imbedded in the evaporator coils, the heater melts the frost and changes the frost to water.
Defrost drain - the drain is suppose to carry the water that has been melted by the defrost heater away from the inside of the fridge to thecondensing tray ( the condensing tray is usually found under the bottom of the fridge ), a pan-shaped panel used to collect condensate from the evaporator during a defrost cycle. It is usually located above a condenser coil or atop the compressor. May also be called condensate water pan.
Drain trough - A trough-shaped panel used to funnel defrost condensate, from the evaporator coil, to the drain tube leading eventually to the drain pan.
When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor
Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.
Hi!
Is your condenser fan running...if not give it a spin and check it to see if it will turn... you will need a new fan motor...let me know
Your defrost is on a timer and every so often it clicks and sends electricity to defrost heater and activates. It shuts everything else down. Manually advance the timer with small screwdriver to see if it activates. If not your timer is bad. Another way to tell is to put a mark on your timer and then come back later and see if it has moved.
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The defrost timer in your fridge is located under the bottom front panel. It will need to be replaced. I will give you further instructions as soon as I find your full repair manual
First thought while looking at the manual. Did you turn deep freeze off?
EXTREME To freeze food at a faster rate to preserve freshness, push the Touch Pad for 3-5 seconds to
FREEZE activate this feature. A green light will appear above the Touch Pad. Push the Touch Pad again
for 3-5 seconds to deactivate.
page 17 of this manual has a picture of your fridge/freezer guts and parts.
ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Anderson/241695301en.pdf
Cold Control & Automatic Defrost Control
Either the timer or the control board will have to be replaced.
If you had bad freon or compressor, your fridge would NOT get cold at all. The problem is the defrost timer. You can find where it is located at the link posted. It has all illustrations of your fridge and it's part locations.
THIS SITE ALSO GIVES YOU TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE AND TESTING PROCEDURES
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Http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html
click the link.
It's probably the defrost timer, based on what you have replaced so far. It could be the defrost stat, which was the small knob like thing attached to the evaporator coil with the two wires coming out of it.
Reply back how you would like to proceed, and I will help you.
Don't even think about compressor, or more importantly freon! 98% of refrigerator problems are electrical and NOT refrigerant issues.
If you replaced the defrost timer, did you check the defrost thermostat? It is embedded in the evaporator along with the defrost temperature sensor. Either one of those could be bad.
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I believe what is happening is your freezer is not defrosting properly and your auto damper is opening just enough to keep the temperatures safe on the fresh food side. look into freezer and the rear wall. Is frost building up on the rear wall? If ye then this is a defrost issue and you will need to unplug and manually defrost with a hair dryer. Don't be afraid to remove the rear panel in freezer so you can see just what happens when defrost is not taking place. I think it is possible that you have a model LSD2615HEW but you will need to confirm before asking for parts. Inside the fresh food compartment and behind the control panel the model LSD2615HEW for example only has a Click Here=> 12002495 Adaptive Defrost Control Board I say example only because I had to assume your model number. This board is the most likely reason for this problem. Sometimes you may see burn marks on one side of board but not always. Click Here for location=> LSD2615HEW Controls and part 12 in photo is the ADC or 12002495 Adaptive Defrost Control Board The only other cause will; be a defective defrost heater or defrost thermostat. The defrost heater is=> 67004188 Defrost Heater Assembly testing of the defrost heater is also in a short tutorial on this same page. Then finally it is always a good idea to replace the defrost thermostat while inside replacing the defrost heater if need. Part number for the defrost thermostat is=> 67004757 Defrost Thermostat and can be found here=> LSD2615HEW Freezer Components If you have any questions I will be here to answer them for you, If helpful please rate this solution, Thank You, Sea Breeze
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I thermostat that I replaced was the defrost stat. I guess there is more than one stat. Is the timer located on a circuit board or is it a separate part? How about freon and or the compressor?
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