There should be a small white ceramic block on the firewall - this component cuts the battery voltage from 12 to 9 volts for the coil and ignition system. It has 4 wires and is called a ballast resistor.
You may need a book with the wiring diagram to be able to test it. You should have battery voltage going in and something like 9 volts coming out.
You can also run a wire with a fuse from the battery to the positive side of the coil to check the system. Disconnect the factory wire from the coil first.
SOURCE: Mk1 Cortina engine starting problems
Change the oil. Thick oil winter can cause it, or over diluted oil too. Got similar issue with my mark 1. Bought it but never ran more than 30 secs. Just drained 8 litres of oil out!!! Glad I changed the carby now. Hope you changed the condenser too. Once the plugs are fouled (may look OK) they are no good so might have to change them again.
SOURCE: engine shut off while driving, cranks over.
Hi, I had the same problem, no spark. I check coil it was good, check the injectors for pulse they are fine, I checked the four wire harnes conected to the distributor are fine, I check resistance at the power transistor in top of the air filter assembly and it was wrong, I just replaced the power transistor and the car is running good again.
I hope this help you.
Thanks
SOURCE: Ignition Problems on 86 Jeep CJ7 No Spark From Coil??
check to see if u have 12v at the pick up coil in the dist. if not thats ur prob. my 81 cj7 304 v8 did it
SOURCE: No Spark from coil
I have problem with coil not working. In the morning,car with not start, but if I run a wire from battery to (+) to coil (+) will start. the rest of day no problem,car will start. but next morning same problem no spark from coil. c
SOURCE: I have a 93 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 that cranks and
Ok...you mentioned that there is no spark coming from the coil when it's in no start...Is there power from the alternator going to the coil?
One other item...If the timing chain is worn and stretched, it is possible that the cam sensor and crank sensor are out of phase with each other, just enough where a temperature difference will change starting ability.
One question...while in no start, have you tried changing the throttle position while cranking to see if it lights at part or 3/4 throttle?
The "Checking For Spark'' test should be performed prior to this test.
This is a basic test of the ignition system that
systematically examines the battery, the coil, the engine controller,
and its wiring harness and connections; the most likely culprits in a
no-start condition at this stage. Fabricate this special jumper with a 0.33 MF capacitor in-line to test the ignition coil
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Terminal locations on the engine controller 14-way connector-1989 models
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Engine controller 60-way connector-relevant terminals for testing are shown numbered
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The ignition must be turned OFF prior
to unplugging the engine controller connector. If it is not, electrical
surging could occur causing damage to the unit or other electrical
components in the vehicle.
This procedure requires an ohmmeter to test the coil
packs for primary and secondary resistance (specifications are given
for an ambient temperature of 70-80°F/21-27°C). The two coil packs contain five independent coils, which fire paired cylinders (shown numbered)
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Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine front coils
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Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine rear coils
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Use an ohmmeter to check secondary resistance as shown
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