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Intermittently, but increasingly repeatably, the microwave self-starts when you close the door. No button pushes involved, nothing more than having taken out the already heated food from a previous correctly working cycle.
Yes, removing the previously heated food and replacing it with a cold cup of water demonstrates that the magenetron is DEFINITELY working: the water heats during this self-start cycle. Dang ... simply closing the door starts the heating cycle. No sequence of button pushes ... including "CLEAR" ... will stop the cycle. Only opening the door stops it. Then, randomly, it stops after an arbitrary number of door openings/closings.
No, there have been no other appliances (including computers, new HD TV, cordless phones, etc.) exhibiting weird symptoms, suggesting that a voltage surge is NOT the problem.
Any sugestions?
Update: occasionally, (less than 20% of the time), but randomly ... the magnetron does not kick on. I.e., the platform turns, the fan runs, the light lights, and it sounds like the unit is in a cook cycle, but no heating occurs. Given the low frequency of no magenetron action, odds are the next time you open the door and it self-starts, it WILL heat (and often does).
No bugs inside the glass; the "bugs" are in the "unit operation" only.
OK, this sucker is computer controlled, right? So how does one do a "reset" and a subsequent "cold start"? I've tried flipping the breaker controlling the microwave "off" and after a few minutes flipping it "on" again. "No joy"; it still behaves the same way: irratic.
Any suggestions on the best way to get GE's attention to what is (to me at least) obviously a safety issue? The unit is only 8 years old, hardly geriatric, and was near the top of the line when purchased. Or, are we better off writing off GE in the future and going with another brand. If so, which one?
cmaunccUpdate: occasionally, (less than 20% of the time), but randomly ... the magnetron does not kick on. I.e., the platform turns, the fan runs, the light lights, and it sounds like the unit is in a cook cycle, but no heating occurs. Given the low frequency of no magenetron action, odds are the next time you open the door and it self-starts, it WILL heat (and often does).
No bugs inside the glass; the "bugs" are in the "unit operation" only.
OK, this sucker is computer controlled, right? So how does one do a "reset" and a subsequent "cold start"? I've tried flipping the breaker controlling the microwave "off" and after a few minutes flipping it "on" again. "No joy"; it still behaves the same way: irratic.
Any suggestions on the best way to get GE's attention to what is (to me at least) obviously a safety issue? The unit is only 8 years old, hardly geriatric, and was near the top of the line when purchased. Or, are we better off writing off GE in the future and going with another brand. If so, which one?
cmauncc
AnonymousMar 14, 2014
'Clear button does not stop it. Otherwise it can be programmed and heats as normal'Clear button does not stop it. Otherwise it can be programmed and heats as normal
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If electronic control, one of two things come to mind. 1)your toutch pad is defective.replace it. 2)you electronic board has a leaky component.not very likly though. believe it or not, ive seen it start before by itself then i noticed a large quantity of bugs inside the glass which i realised triggered the microwave 0ff.
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If it is tripping the breaker when you just close the door, I think it might be one of the door switches that the latch activates. There are usually 3 switches behind the latch holes in the microwave. One is a safety monitor switch that is suppose to blow the internal fuse if the microwave is started and the door is not closed properly. It should blow the micro fuse before the house breaker unless you have a weak house breaker. It will do the same thing if start is pressed and it senses a problem with the door. You say the problem is intermittent so I assume you do get it to work at times so I'm guessing most of the microwave is OK. I'm pretty sure you have a door switch problem--- either out of adjustment ---or 1 of them going bad.
This is technical!!! Don't know how handy you are but the biggest reason for microwave failure is a diode (HV) between ground and the lead to the magnatron. usually mounted low down low on the right inside of the unit. Also, there are about three microswitches in the door closing latches to make sure the door is properly closed. Sometimes they come loose or fracture the mount. then of course there is the Magnatron its self. I save them from old units. They are different wattages but physically the same and simple to change. Good luck.
Push the microwave door tightly closed. The computer will not start cooking until the door is closed for safety reasons. Some models of microwave will give a warning on the screen if the door is open.
Ensure you have programmed a heat setting, entered a cooking time and pressed the "Start" button on the microwave's keypad. Check that the microwave is not set to "Defrost" mode.
Unplug the microwave and wait for one minute. This measure will reset the microwave's internal computer if it has frozen or scrambled. Plug the microwave back in and try again.
Ensure the keypad lock mode is inactive. Most microwave ovens have a lockout feature that prevents children from starting the microwave while unsupervised. Lockout mode is usually deactivated by holding down the button that bears a padlock symbol (like the "Start" button in the photograph).
I have this same problem occasionally. Pull the vent grill open and look for a white cam that rotates when the microwave is on. To the right of that cam, there are two gray switches. The bottom switch should have a red tab that pops out. When the vent grill opens and closes continuously, the red tab is stuck in. Take a flat screwdriver or tooth pick and push gently in on the red tab to release it. It must get stuck due to grease or dirt accumulation. Good luck.
The drawer often stops working when it is abruptly stopped while
opening and forced closed or vice-versa. To fix, simply do the
following: 1) Push the draw all the way closed 2) Push the "Setup" button repeatedly until the "Open/Close ...?" appears. 3) Hold the Start Button until the time reappears in the display. 4) Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times 5) Unplug the Microwave for 30 minutes. The
drawer is now reset. The drawer will now open electronically
(automatically) either by pushing the open button on the panel or by
pulling the drawer handle slightly.
If the microwave oven operates with the door open it is a serious issue. DO NOT OPERATE IT. Call a technician immediately. The RF frequency is extremely dangerous. the safety switches inside the oven are malfunctioning and needs to be replaced
Update: occasionally, (less than 20% of the time), but randomly ... the magnetron does not kick on. I.e., the platform turns, the fan runs, the light lights, and it sounds like the unit is in a cook cycle, but no heating occurs. Given the low frequency of no magenetron action, odds are the next time you open the door and it self-starts, it WILL heat (and often does).
No bugs inside the glass; the "bugs" are in the "unit operation" only.
OK, this sucker is computer controlled, right? So how does one do a "reset" and a subsequent "cold start"? I've tried flipping the breaker controlling the microwave "off" and after a few minutes flipping it "on" again. "No joy"; it still behaves the same way: irratic.
Any suggestions on the best way to get GE's attention to what is (to me at least) obviously a safety issue? The unit is only 8 years old, hardly geriatric, and was near the top of the line when purchased. Or, are we better off writing off GE in the future and going with another brand. If so, which one?
cmauncc
'Clear button does not stop it. Otherwise it can be programmed and heats as normal
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