Replacing built-in double oven relay board #2

Usually the screws keeping the wall oven in its space are through the sides of the oven. With doors open look on both sides for screws that go into the cabinets

you would need a minimum of 48&1/8" high,23&1/2" Deep, and 22&1/2" wide and 14" off the floor for ventilation per G.E quick specs

Replace your oven temperature sensor.
F2 Oven too hot Replace relay board (if present) or bad oven temperature sensor

It has nothing to do with the tight fit.
It has everything to do with self-cleaning on ovens.
The thermal fuse blows due to extreme temperatures.
Replace the fuse to use the oven.
Use an oven cleaner to clean the oven OR replace more fuses in the future.

What it needs is a new temperature sensor.
Unplug the range. Open the oven. Look in the top right or left side of the oven for a metal rod about 1/2 the size of a pencil. Remove the screws holding it in. Pull it out very carefully. Unplug the wire connector. Reverse this order to replace the temperature sensor.

It is the whole front face w/ the buttons. My whole neigborhood has these ovens (same builder, same ovens) and this part lasts about 2-4 years. The part is about $165. You can see it on Home Depot's appliance repair site. It looks like there is nothing electronic, but there is, and it's busted. It is really easy to replace:
1. Turn off the breaker at your house's breaker panel.
2. Verify there is no power to the oven.
3. Open the oven door. Look on the right and left side of the oven. There should be 4-6 screws going from vertical trim pieces of the oven into your cabinets. Your builder may have also put screws from the bottom trim of the oven into your cabinets. Mine did not. Remove these screws.
4. After that, your oven should slide forward out of the cabinet. Pull it about 6 inches out.
5. There are two screws (1/4 inch hex headed screws) holding the front panel to the oven. Remove those.
6.Slide the front panel off.
7. Remove the computer ribbon looking wire from the back of the control panel. It's a strange connection - it should come out effortlessly when done right. The little grey connection that surrounds the wire's entry point stays on the panel, but a wedge is jammed between the grey surround and the wire. You pull the wedge out and the wire comes out...easier than my credit card out of my wallet.
8. Remove the four screws (again, 1/4 inch hex headed screws) connecting the thick, double layered circuit board and clock display from the metal face.
9. The metal face is what you need to replace. Pasted onto the front of the metal face is a super thin button panel, and that's the part that died, and will die again, and again, and again...
email me for pics [email protected]

the humming sound is coming from the "squirrel cage" fan in the back of the unit, there may be some resonance vibration from the fan this issue should be addressed by a qualified service tech, the whole wall oven needs to be pulled out, i would have him check the fan.

It is the whole front face w/ the buttons. My whole neigborhood has these ovens (same builder, same ovens) and this part lasts about 2-4 years. The part is about $165. You can see it on Home Depot's appliance repair site. It looks like there is nothing electronic, but there is, and it's busted. It is really easy to replace:
1. Turn off the breaker at your house's breaker panel.
2. Verify there is no power to the oven.
3. Open the oven door. Look on the right and left side of the oven. There should be 4-6 screws going from vertical trim pieces of the oven into your cabinets. Your builder may have also put screws from the bottom trim of the oven into your cabinets. Mine did not. Remove these screws.
4. After that, your oven should slide forward out of the cabinet. Pull it about 6 inches out.
5. There are two screws (1/4 inch hex headed screws) holding the front panel to the oven. Remove those.
6.Slide the front panel off.
7. Remove the computer ribbon looking wire from the back of the control panel. It's a strange connection - it should come out effortlessly when done right. The little grey connection that surrounds the wire's entry point stays on the panel, but a wedge is jammed between the grey surround and the wire. You pull the wedge out and the wire comes out...easier than my credit card out of my wallet.
8. Remove the four screws (again, 1/4 inch hex headed screws) connecting the thick, double layered circuit board and clock display from the metal face.
9. The metal face is what you need to replace. Pasted onto the front of the metal face is a super thin button panel, and that's the part that died, and will die again, and again, and again...
Email me for some pictures:
[email protected]

F1 Power to element relay energized during time of day display.
1. Wiring harness shorted.
2. Or change power relay board (PRB).

Note: for double ovens, change second oven board.

you will have to modify your cabinet