It had been on about 30 minutes at level 10 power and when it finished cooking, everything went off. Bought a replacement fuse and installed, and the control pad came on, reset time, etc. and attempted to heat up a cup of water. As soon as I hit START, it lost power and blew fuse. What could be the problem?
SOURCE: Lost power suddenly
Could be; replacement fuses avail @ RadioShack or a similar place for a few bucks, so it's worth trying. Just remove the outer casing, look for the white plastic snap-on container (might say "FUSE" on the side). See this also:
http://www.partselect.com/microwave+replace-fuse+repair.htm
SOURCE: Jenn-Air M170 Microwave Died
I would suspect the fuse has blown, probably due to either a loose fuse holder or a shorted high voltage capacitor.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
The fuse is usually located behind the grille or on the
floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
It will be a ceramic fuse, probably 20 amps. These can be had in most
grocery stores, hardware stores, home improvement centers, and big box
or department stores.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order
parts by
entering your full model number here.
If yours is blown, I would buy two or three fuses, just to be safe, because you may find that it blows again right away or shortly after hitting Start.
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few
seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing
high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open
or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
After you look into
this, if you still need help, please write back with more details.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: microwave won't heat
Sorry my Clarification Request came out as a single blob of a paragraph.
That's not how I typed it. I never write that way!
So I've pasted it here, but as a solution.
Magnetrons generally should last about 2000 hours, but several factors can shorten that.
If it's not OVER ten years old (from the purchase date or the date on the tag inside the unit) then the magnetron is still under warranty.
From the owner's manual:
"For the second through the tenth year from the date of original purchase
"The magnetron tube, if the magnetron tube fails due to a defect in
materials or workmanship. During this nine-year limited warranty, you
will be responsible for any labor or in-home service costs.
"For the above limited warranty: To avoid any trip charges, you must take the microwave oven to a
General Electric Customer Care® servicer and pick it up following service. In-home service is also
available, but you must pay for the service technician’s travel costs to your home."
GE Customer Service is here, and you can verify the warranty status and find your nearest authorized servicer.
If you're sure the magnetron's bad, it's still under warranty, and you or a friend are handy, they will
send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.
Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.
It does sound like the magnetron overheated and the magnetron's thermostat opened until it cooled down.
An overheating magnetron can be due to:
Since yours is a counter top model, there are less of those factors to worry about.
When you hit Start to
microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?
Any unusual noises? Is
it louder or quieter than usual?
We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.
You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts if needed by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.
Let us know what you find out or decide.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: not heating up anything
Tat would be a magnetron problem. The magnetron is what provides the heat
SOURCE: stopped work when open microwave door no power now
I finally was able to fix similar problem. The "primary" door switch (top switch) had a burned contact inside the switch body, as well as burned surrounding plastic. It would no longer "click" and tended to stay in "closed" position. [The switch is a "normally open" design (NO).] When this occurs and the door is opened, the "monitor" switch causes the fuse to blow out. GE wants $50 for this part. However, I was able to find a universal design of microswitch at Fry's Electronics. It had the same rating (15 amp at 250 volts), same body size, both NO and NC terminals, but with a lever arm which I had to remove by opening the case. Cost was $2.47 + tax. (PRICELESS!). So far so good. I also had to buy a set of Torx driver bits for tamperproof screws to be able to remove the oven cover. (The hole in the end of the bit goes over the tamperproof pin of the screw).
I also viewed a YouTube video which was helpful at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsWTCnACqdY
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