At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
I allready check rollouts(bypass) Cleaned flame sensor Do You think about pressure switch or LimitI allready check rollouts(bypass) Cleaned flame sensor Do You think about pressure switch or Limit
The flame sensor is a thermocouple, you need to test it with a multimeter, on normal temp it should return approx 1Kohms. Also test the pressure switch, if it is defective you can have same problem.
dont think any amatur at this place could be qualified to mess with gas get a qualified engineer out and ge the wor certified otherwise your home insurance will suffer honestly
dont think any amatur at this place could be qualified to mess with gas get a qualified engineer out and ge the wor certified otherwise your home insurance will suffer honestly
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
I would suspect your not getting a pilot. If not, you need to check the pilot gas line and orifice. You must get pilot prove before you get main burner.
The thermo coupling is the little copper piece that the pilot light flame stays on. If the thermo coupling is not getting the flame of the pilot light the unit will not stay lit. Replace that and that should solve your problem. They are cheap and easy to replace.
A bad rollout sensor will cause that. they are located in front of the burners mounted to the housing of the burners ..if just one goes bad it will fire like yours
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
They are listed inside the front panel of the main unit. LED CODE
EACH OF THE FOLLOWING STATUS CODES IS A TWO DIGIT NUMBER WITH THE FIRST DIGIT DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF SHORT FLASHES AND THE SECOND DIGIT BY THE NUMBER OF LONG FLASHES. STATUS
11 NO PREVIOUS CODE - Stored status code is erased automatically after 72 hours. On RED LED boards stored status codes can also be erased when power (115 VAC or 24 VAC) to control is interrupted. 12 BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115 VAC or 24 VAC) -Blower runs for 90 seconds, if unit is powered up during a call for heat (R-W closed) or R-W opens during blower on-delay. 13 LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT - Lockout occurs if the limit or flame rollout switch is open longer than 3 minutes. - Control will auto reset after three hours. - Refer to #33. 14 IGNITION LOCKOUT - Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34. 21 GAS HEATING LOCKOUT - Control will NOT auto reset. Check for: - Mis-wired gas valve -Defective control (valve relay) 22 ABNORMAL FLAME-PROVING SIGNAL - Flame is proved while gas valve is de-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for: - Leaky gas valve - Stuck-open gas valve 23 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN Check for: - Obstructed pressure tubing. - Pressure switch stuck closed. 24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN Check for: - Short circuit in secondary voltage (24VAC) wiring. 31 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than five minutes, inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for: - Excessive wind - Proper vent sizing - Defective inducer motor - Low inducer voltage (115VAC) - Defective pressure switch - Inadequate combustion air supply - Restricted vent - Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing - Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used) If it opens during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected blower off-delay. 33 LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT - Indicates a limit, or flame rollout is open. Blower will run for 4 minutes or until open switch remakes whichever is longer. If open longer than 3 minutes, code changes to lockout #13. If open less than 3 minutes status code #33 continues to flash until blower shuts off. Flame rollout switch requires manual reset. Check for: - Restricted vent - Proper vent sizing - Loose blower wheel - Excessive wind - Dirty filter or restricted duct system. - Defective blower motor or capacitor. - Defective switch or connections. - Inadequate combustion air supply (Flame Roll-out Switch open). 34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE - Control will try three more times before lockout #14 occurs. If flame signal lost during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected blower off-delay. Check for: - Control ground continuity - Flame sensor must not be grounded - Oxide buildup on flame sensor (clean with fine steel wool). - Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. min., 4.0 - 6.0 nominal). - Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off - Manual valve shut-off - Defective Hot Surface Ignitor - Low inlet gas pressure - Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition - Green/Yellow wire MUST be connected to furnace sheet metal 45 CONTROL CIRCUITRY LOCKOUT Auto-reset after one hour lockout due to; - Gas valve relay stuck open - Flame sense circuit failure - Software check error Reset power to clear lockout. Replace control if status code repeats. If status code recall is needed, briefly remove then reconnect one main limit wire to display stored status code. On RED LED boards do not remove power or blower door before initiatingstatus code recall. After one status code recall is completed component test will occur.
Check the thermocouple (heat sensor) on the pilot light...it tells the control unit that there is a lit flame...otherwise, the control unit won't let the gas valve open...does the pilot light stay lit after you've held the button down 30 seconds?...
First shut off power to unit then check all wiring in control compartment. Look for any unhooked wires especially at gas valve and at control board. If no problem there then run unit and see if your gas valve is getting 24v at the terminal marked MV on the valve. Do this by putting one meter lead (red) on MV and one lead (black) on a good ground such as the metal of the cabinet itself. About 5 or ten seconds after the igniter begins to glow the board should send 24v to the valve. If it doesnt then the board thinks the igniter is not working or the board is bad. If there is 24v then the gas valve is bad but you can try giving the valve a few good raps with the handle of a screwdriver. This will sometimes free up the solinoid inside the valve but is only a temporary fix you will need a new valve. All this is assuming you have a hot surface igniter.
Be sure that that PVC vent pipe going outside is not plugged or trapped with water. If the vent pressure switch is not tripping the furnace will not ignite. Also be sure that you don't have a gas leak somewhere causing weak gas flow to furnace.
There is a chart with the wiring diagram and othere charts that will tell you what the 6 blinks are for. That should tell you what is wrong and what part you need. Sounds to me like the board has an issue or the gas valve is locked out.
Check the roll out switch(s) and the lock out switches. They are a small disc looking about the size of a nickle, with with 2 wires attached on them. There will be a re-set button in the middle that resembles a small peg. Push this in to re-set. As the glow coil shorted out, the fuse on the control board may have blown. On the newer furnaces find the main board and look for a car type fuse. If blown, replace. You also have the symptoms of a bad limit switch, by the clicking noise (the heat fan relay) and the blower fan running instantlly.
I allready check rollouts(bypass) Cleaned flame sensor Do You think about pressure switch or Limit
I don't see a termo coupling in this unit
it's a igniter and a flame sensor
I did it allready
it's a Nordine G3RA-o72C13
This is HOT surface igniter
×