Water heater ground

10/15/2012
Hi Liz.
This is a live answer. And you can add a comment after trying following step, and I will comment back..
Replace battery, and then reset the timer using reset button located to left of display screen.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/eh40-english.pdf

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You have hot water.
That says electric circuit is good.
TP valve and tank are not leaking.
Sediment is not clogging pipes and tank.

Problem could be:

1) Factory-installed insulation and cover removed from tank so thermostat exposed to cool air and misreads temperature.

2) Bad upper-or-lower thermostat. Replace both thermostats for $28 and see if problem persists
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

3) If you have dual-element 240V tank: Either upper or lower element shorted to ground and heating with 120V through ground wire after thermostat turns off.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

4) Shorted wire, or combination of causes listed above:
Open following link for full troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Hi,
The unit will not owrk unless you have 240V ACROSS the black and white wires...if you do not have that coming to the unit then you have a bad breaker...

heatman101

Links below show specific wiring diagrams and explain 240V with two hot wires vrs 120V with hot and neutral wires.

Then if you have more questions, add a comment and I will fill in blanks:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html
First diagram will be for your water heater.

http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Sounds like you might have a thermostat problem, or burned out lower element
Lower thermostat and both elements will test for 120V at all times because upper thermostat only cuts off one leg of 240V circuit, and other leg is hot all the time.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Yes, the elements alternate being turned ON.
This is called non-simultaneous operation.
Look at label on side of tank: Each element has rating of 4500Watts, but tank rating is also 4500Watts > that shows that both elements are not ON at same time.
This is standard wiring for water heaters.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Water heaters can we wired differently, for example converted to simultaneous operation where upper thermostat and lower thermostat are no longer wired together, so upper and lower parts of tank are independent.
Lower thermostat is replaced with ECO protected thermostat identical to upper thermostat.
Another 240V circuit breaker is added to breaker panel, and that 240V line runs directly to lower thermostat. So upper and lower thermostats are each on separate 240V line.
The advantage of simultaneous is faster recovery of hot water, but downside is probably higher electric bill. Simultaneous wiring is usually reserved for larger tanks like 80 gallons, where elements can fall behind the amount of hot water needed.
Otherwise, ordinary non-simultaneous operation is proven to be satisfactory, if your home has not experienced shortages.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-off-peak-water-heater-thermostats.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Do-it-yourself-water-heater-timer.html

Add a comment for more free help.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Breaker could be bad.
Let's do a quick check and save you money.
Open top cover on water heater and push in red reset button that might be tripped.
If reset is tripped, water heater should turn ON.
If reset will not reset, then replace upper thermostat:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
If reset is not tripped out, then it is OK, so test two top wires on upper thermostat.
Use cheap multimeter from home center, and set dial to 240-250-277 VAC.
Test across top two screws on upper thermostat to see if you have 240Volts.
To do full troubleshoot on ordinary tank electric water heater takes 30 minutes and multimeter
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

If water heater is not receiving 240V, then the breaker is suspect, or a wire between breaker and water heater is loose.
See basic water heater circuit
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html

Now let's look at circuit breaker:
Mark suspect 240V breaker.
Identify all your breakers, and also mark another 240 Volt breaker that is same amperage as water heater 240V breaker.
Turn off main breaker.
Take front panel off breaker box.
The wires and lugs on main breaker are HOT, so stay away from that area.
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
Suspect breaker has 2 wires coming from breaker.
See if one or both wires are loose, and then tighten.

If wires are tight, then move these wires to the other 240V breaker that is rated for same amps as water heater.
Now turn on main breaker.
Put ear against water heater tank to hear bubbly fizzing sound.
This will identify if circuit breaker is bad, or if water heater needs a full troubleshoot.
It is not a good idea to run two 240V appliances on same 240V circuit breaker, so you may have to decide one or the other appliance until you can replace breaker.
Instructions to replace circuit breaker:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater circuit.

First of all, you have 240V water heater because tank has two elements.
You have no hot water, and tank has power to upper element.
Lower element has no power.

Something doesn't sound right.
You're not testing correctly.

Before doing anything, test across top two screws of upper element for 240Volts.
This will eliminate electrical problem as suspect.
Breaker must deliver 120V on both legs to complete the 240V circuit.
Every single-phase household circuit takes 2 wires to complete the circuit.
With 120V you need 1 neutral wire and 1 hot wire to complete circuit.
With 240V you need 2 hot wires, one from each hot busbar, to complete circuit.
Your water heater can appear to have electricity if breaker is delivering power on one leg of the 240V circuit.
To check breaker for sure, move wires to another similar size breaker to see if water heater functions properly.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

If 240V circuit is good, then next thing is take 30 minutes and do full test of water heater parts.
This will identify exact problem(s) without guessing.
Buy 5$ multimeter from Home Depot. Install battery.
When test calls for continuity, rotate dial to Ohms (upside down horseshoe is ohms).
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate dial to 240-250-277 VAC
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more help.

If water is totally cold, then upper element is not getting 240V. Since element tested for 120V, then that says upper element is burned out, upper thermostat is bad, or circuit breaker is bad.
Best thing is to buy multimeter and do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Also read information below for understanding how water heater works.

Testing elements for voltage can be misleading.
If water heater has 2 elements, then tank is 240Volts.
240V water heaters have 120V on each element at all times.
So elements have hot 120V power, but they are not turned on until the circuit is complete with 240V.
Open following links to read specifics about 120V and 240V
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html

240V is made from two 120V Hot wires from breaker box.
Each 120V line from breaker is called a 'leg.'
So 240V circuit has two legs, and both legs need to be turned on to complete 240V circuit.

Water heater thermostats turn off only one leg.
The other leg is Hot all the time.
So when you test screws on an element, for example test between a screw and any bare metal part of tank, then the screw will always show 120V.
That is just one leg of the 240V circuit.
But the 240V circuit is not turned On until both legs are connected.
Every residential circuit needs two wires to complete the circuit, and in the case of 240V, those two wires are both 120V.

When the thermostat turns on, it turns on the second leg to the element and that completes the 240V circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

Shut off breaker to you water heater. STILL TEST FOR VOLTAGE BEFORE YOU TOUCH ANY WIRING. The 3 wire that go to you water heater disconnect them. You are going to install them to your WH 40 timer.
The wires that you disconnected will now go to terminals: Black to Terminal 1 & White To Terminal 3, The Ground copper wire will go to the ground terminal should be a green screw.
You will have to buy some 10/2 wiring to go from your timer to your water heater. You can buy it by the foot at Lowes. Figure how much you will need.
With the new 10/2 wire install the Black to terminal 2 & White To Terminal 4, the ground wire will go to the ground screw with the other ground wire.
Wiring that went to terminals 2 & 4 will be installed to you water heater, the same way when you disconnected them. Set your timer clock and your done. Turn breaker back on!