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Doug Theriault Posted on Jan 11, 2013
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Washer runs its corse but water will not strain

Had door open washer goes back and forth but no water coming out of hose

1 Answer

Donald DCruz

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  • Maytag Master 17,130 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2013
Donald DCruz
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Joined: Jun 24, 2010
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It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced. If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.

Cleaning a pump: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKjKi50YBpI&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.

Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2008

SOURCE: washer Maytag

To get access to internals you have to remove back panel of machine and then other 3 sides that then exposes the parts you need to get to eg. drainage hose,s

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Anonymous

  • 3361 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2009

SOURCE: maytag legacy series tub wont fill

Your drain hose is too low or there is no air gap where the hose enters the drain line.
This causes the water to siphon out as it fills.

Anonymous

  • 1294 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: matag neptun front load washer wont drain

You have a clog in your pump; have to dismantle to de-clog. Look carefully.

Tip:

Empty out all pockets in clothing before loading the machine!

Anonymous

  • 632 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 08, 2009

SOURCE: washer over fills and water comes out the door

  1. Water inlet valve. It may not be able to shut completely when the electricity to it has been turned off. The valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. Water may accumulate substantially and overflow. Remove the washer's cabinet to access it.
  2. Water level switch. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It is usually a diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the air pressure in the tube increases and activates the switch when the water reaches a certain level. When the switch is obstructed, it cannot tell the water to shut off and the machine overflows.Clear it from any obstruction.
  3. Air-hose. It is connected to the water level switch through a tube. If the tube or hose is cracked or broken, no enough pressure builds up to trigger the switch and shut the water supply off. Check it for any obvious damage.

HansPP

Hans Pearson

  • 2510 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 25, 2011

SOURCE: I have the 2 hoses coming off the back,, my

The outlet solenoid valve is either stuck open or there is an erroneous signal from the control unit being sent to the valve. Disconnect the wires from the valve (with the unit disconnected from the electrical outlet) and try to fill it. If it still runs through, inspect the valve to see if it is stuck or jammed open.

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I have GE GLDT696TSS. The dishes are not clean and one time noticed water leak from the back of the washer.

You should check the water outlet - probably discharges into your sink through a garbage disposal - the water outlet is likely plugged and water can not discharge down the sink. You can remove the hose and clean it out.
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I think your water pump has died, or its little impeller broke.
The first thing to determine is: Can it pump out the water?
When the dial turns (itself) to "4", it begins an 11 minute period where it alternately runs the drain pump, while slowly tumbling the clothes CW then CCW. Do you see water coming out the drain hose? If you do, the pump & impeller are fine.
You might have a clogged "coin trap". That's the little basket behind the trap door on the front lower right corner. When this is opened, any water in the Washer will pour onto floor (or a catch pan), so be careful. Open the access door (pry it with a kitchen knife or screwdriver); slowly unscrew the "basket" (placing shallow pan or towel under it), and pull the basket out to remove any clogging buildup which could block the water from exiting. If the basket is not clogged, there could be a clog in the hoses. Pull the drain hose out of the drain pipe, and blow hard into the end. If the hose is not clogged, air will come out of the "basket" receptacle, which you can hear and feel.
If nothing is clogged, you're back to testing the pump. It is at the back right, bottom, where the drain hose exits the Washer. Pull the machine out to access the back; remove back (ten 1.5mm Torx screws); listen to see if drain pump motor hums (it doesn't run all the time); There are two wires connecting to the little motor - they are simply 120 Volt A/C (like from a wall outlet). You could pull the 2 connectors off and temporarily connect your own extension cord - to see if motor runs when A/C is applied. Being A/C, it doesn't matter which wire goes where. If the pump is bad, I have one. Call me at 703-851-6536.
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NFW7200TW hums and does not turn or fill with water

if it doesn't fill the water valve will hum,first thing is to see if it's a problem with the house water valve or the washer valve,shut off the water supply,reomve the water hoses from the back of washer,mark the hoses so they go back on the same way,stick the hoses into the washer or a bucket and turn the water on,if water comes out of hoses then you know the problem is just the washer,check the valve,look at the screens where the hoses connect to the valve,usually sediment gets in there and the valve on the washer has to be replaced,on some the screens can be removed and cleaned,also you say you have trouble with the lock,what's humming is it the lock or the valve,if you turn it to drain and spin will it run?you could have a bad door switch,if door doesn't latch washer won't run but most likely bad water valve
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I have one side of the wipers spray out fluid, but one side not.

This is called the washer spray nozzle.Did you try removing the hose and then blowing thru it?I always try blowing from the nozzle end back to the washer bottle.If you can remove the hose from the nozzle and blow back towards the washer bottle.If you can blow back to the bottle then you need to replace the nozzle.Hope this helps.Good luck.
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When machine cuts off water still runs in

You probably have a leaking solenoid. A solenoid is a valve that is either opened or closed. You have one for the hot water line, and one for the cold water line. The hoses from the wall go to the solenoid valves at the back of the machine. The machine tells them when to open and close based on what cycle you tell the machine to perform.
To figure which one is leaking by, shut off one of the water supplies (hot or cold) at the wall where your hoses connect. Wait a bit and see if the water continues to rise. You may have to mark the level in the tub with a pencil, or grease pencil to see if it is rising or not. If it is rising, that's the leaking side. If not, close the open valve at the wall, and open the other valve. Continue to observe to see if the water level rises (it should). Once you have determined which one is leaking by, disconnect (unplug) the washer, close the water valves, and follow the hose of the leaking side down to the washer. Where the hose screws on to the washer is the solenoid in question. Disconnect the hose, and catch the water in a pot or a bucket. Gain access to the solenoid (usually by taking the back off of the washer). Take careful notes as to how the wiring connects so reassembly isn't an issue. I make sketches showing where each wire goes, what color it is and so forth, and that's real handy. Remove the solenoid. Take the solenoid with you to an appliance parts supply house and get a replacement. The installation process is the reverse of the removal process.
Hope that this helps. Best regards, --W/D--
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Water outlet fault. The door wouldn't open, so I drained the unit and then the door opened. I cleaned some coins out of filter and tried again. Same fault, water outlet fault.

Hello and welcome to Fixya. With the Asko washer it is possible to have some coins and debris up in the hose which goes from the tub to the pump as well as downstream of the pump in the drain hose, it is a pretty small diameter and quarters, nickles, dimes and pennies can block it up entirely. It will require a very thorough check. You may in fact have a damaged pump as well. If you watch the pump impeller it should spin freely, if it just sits there with the impeller moving slightly back and forth it is faulty. In any event you'll need to either phone in a pro or remove the pump and hoses ( which are held by one-time clamps ) which will require installing new hose clamps and removing the lower service/access panel. Depending on the actual model of Asko washer you have the process of doing this will vary. Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance. Thanks for visitng fixya, please rate this info accordingly or please let me know how I can help additionally. Good luck. Macmarkus :)
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more than likely the pump is clogged if you pull the the washer out away from the wall and then lean it back to get under it there is a hole to access the under side you can reach through to the pump then disconnect the large hose that goes from the tub to pump reach down inside of this hose remove the cup that has debris in it and clear it out remove the debris and reassemble the washer
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I have a Kenmore Elite HE3t washer. It fills up

Ironically, the "FH" error is called a "No Water Detect" error. It can have several causes however. The error can be generated if there's no water, or not enough water flowing into the washer. It can also be generated if there's too much water. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608753-fh_error_code

Since your washer is over-filling, I would strongly suspect you have a pressure switch malfunction or the air hose that runs from the wash tub to the pressure swtich has come loose. The pressure swtich is located in the the right rear area of the washer and is accessed by removing the top panel of the washer. There is a small air hose that runs from the switch to the bottom of the wash tub. This air hose is used to detect the pressure differential in the tub as the washer fills. The pressure differential is sensed by the pressure swtich and it shuts off the water supply to stop filling. I would recommend you follow this air hose all the way to the bottom of the wash tub to ensure it is still attached. If not, the tub will continue to fill as yours is doing. Reattach the hose as necessary if it has come loose and the poblem should go away. Make sure you check the entire run of the hose to ensure there are no holes as well. Leaks will cause the pressure swtich to malfuction. If the air hose is still intact, replace the pressure swtich. The part number for a replacement pressure switch is 8181695. If you need to replace the air hose, the part number is W10004260. You can purchase parts at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list offer helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you in part location/identification. The pressure switch and hose is listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading if you search by model number.

The pressure hose replacement is simple. Make sure the washer is UNPLUGGED before servicing and disconnect the electrical connector plug(s) from the switch, disconnect the air hose and remove any mounting screws. Some of these switch are simply clipped onto the cabinet side.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this information helps you.
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Water is leaking out the bottom of door

clogged defrost drain. remove ice from bottom of freezer and take very hot water and work back and forth with a turkey basteruntil water drains. blow out with hose.
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Beeping dryer & broken hinge on the washer

1 Beep/E10--Error: Water doesn't enter Cause: Water supply problem, Check kinks and faucets
1 Beep/E10--Error: Water leaks Cause: Water connections loose,household drain clog,oversudsing. Correct problems.
1 Beep/E10--Error: Dispenser drawer is open Cause: Washer will not operate if drawer is open.
2 Beeps/E20--Error: Water dosen't drain. Cause: Drain is kinked or household clog. Correct.
3 Beeps/E30--Error: Drum overfilled. Cause: Inlet valve,pressure switch or control board failure.Select drain/spin to remove water. Restart.
4 Beeps/E40--Error: Door is open. Cause: Washer will not operate if door is open. Close door.
5 Beeps/E50--Error: Motor is overheated. Cause: Wait 30 minutes to cool down. Restart.
7 Beeps/E70--Error: Cold water doesn't enter. Cause: Hoses crossed,faucet problem.
15 Beeps/EF0--Error: Oversudsing. Cause: Too much detergent,or improper detergent for machine.
15 Beeps/EF0--Error: Hot water doesn't enter. Cause: Hoses crossed,faucet problem.


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