Need a diagram on carb plummigform tank to carb

You should have 2 lined coming from tank. A return and feed. Normally the return is the lowest positioned outlet on the carb, and the feed is at the top. When pumping the purge bulb take the gas cap off tank, and you should see fuel being returned to the tank from the return line. If not, switch the lines on carb. If still not returning fuel to the tank, you will need to pull the carb and inspect the metering and fuel pump diaphrams.

Fuel goes through fuel filter in tank to carb to purge bulb and back into tank.

Hi Connie and Chris.
I don't have a diagram handy, but the flow sequence usually is
Tank to
Carb to
Primer to
tank return
The idea is that the primer sucks fuel through the carb.
Hope this helps.

The ring and spring are under the diaphram. After the screws are removed, tilt the carb and a pop will be heard when the carb is separated from the tank. The spring and clip set in the top of the tank.. Ring on the top of the spring.

I'm not able to post a diagram,but I can give you some info-you'll need to-replace the rubber diaphram/gasket if it hasn't been replaced in the last 2 years remove the hi &lo speed needles,give it a cleaning with spray carb cleaner,put it back together,start with needles 1& 1/4to 1 1/2 turns out.it's a basic,simply designed carb.Ah for the good old days!Find a chiltons small engine repair manual for a diagram
.[hint] start w/a full tank

The 2150 has a remote primer, so there will be three pipes, the pipe coming from the fuel tank with the fuel filter on the end is the main fuel tube, this fits to the connection on the carb nearest to the pump cover on the carb ( alluminium cover held with a single screw ) the other connection on the carb has a pipe to the shorter of the two connections on the back of the primer ( suction side ) the longer connection on the back of the primer ( pressure side ) has a pipe back to the fuel tank, so the primer pulls fuel from the tank, into the bulb, and dumps it back to the tank, it does not push fuel into the carb, this way you can depress the bulb as many times as you like without flooding the engine.

I don't have a diagram, but I can explain to you the fuel line routing.
The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for about 1/2" or so.

What could be wrong can be a big list. The weather conditions for the 2 year period may have caused moisture in the tank. The fuel pump may have dried out and shriveled up. Your truck might need adjustments for the Gasahol that is more common today.

The Oxygen sensors may have to dry out after the gulp of Carb cleaner loosened the carbon on the top end of your motor. Use a product called "HEAT" which is a dryer for the fuel system. You can tell it is working when a plume of steam comes out the exhaust. For now just block the accelerator to a fast idle and let the system have a chance to stabilize.

Diagram not needed? Start by taking apart the cover(s) that surround the carb, there should be a least 4 bolts holding your cover assembly together. Once the cover is off just replace hose with one the same length maybe a little longer.

without knowing if its a briggs and straton or tecumseh engine ( I assume Briggs) the carb is where the throttle and gas line connect to. carb will need to be rebuilt most likely and tank will have to be removed to be cleaned. you can email me and I could do it for you I am in wisconsin kerryjonjon at yahoo.com I am the most reasonable in this area. I could do carb and tank if you want.