I have heater set to 72 after it warms to 72 blower continues to blow but cool air once temp goes below 72 it starts to blow hot air again
Sounds like either a short between the G and R t stat wires or the relay in the control board is faulty. Easy way to check is remove the G wire from G terminal on the control board, if the blower stops, there is a short in tje t-stat wiring, if it continues to run a new control board will be needed since the relay is part of the board.
SOURCE: Honeywell thermostat....Home cooling/heating system....Chromotherm III
On heat pumps, the normal setting is simply an air conditioner working in reverse. The EMT or AUX heat is a supplemental heating system using electric heating elements instead of the hermetic (compressor) system. As far as why the regular heat does not work it can be one of many things. low freon charge. reversing valve not functioning. The defrost cycle not working. Take your pick. you may want to call a service man to repair it as the electric (EMT) is not as efficient.
SOURCE: Honeywell RTH230B a/c problem
if you set the thermostat on 70 and your house won't get ant cooler than 72, there is a problem with your system,not your stat. I'm thinking you are low on refrigerant if it is somewhat working. when the unit is running, if you can get your hand on the larger refrigerant line under the black insulation, it should be cold, about 55 degrees.
SOURCE: indoor temp doesnt go to my punched in setting of 68 on therm
if it is around 93-97 degrees outside,thats all the cool your going to get
SOURCE: Bought 44155c hunter thermostat air won't turn on.
If unit worked before you tryed changing t-stat then its possible the t-stat wires are shorting each other out.take t-stat back off cut back wires a good 6 to 10 inches or if you dont have that much wire to play with just cut back as far as you can and make sure there is no bare wire touching each other ,then just to test unit to make sure its working ok twist yell.,red,green together this should bring both units on and should blow cold.if this works up to this point on the new stat read directions closely there might be a jumper wire in the stat that needs connected usually from y1 to w1 you would install a jumper wire .see if this helps if not write back i have 1 other solution.i hope this helps
SOURCE: Furnace cuts off before reaching set temp.
You can make sure it is not the thermostat by crossing or jumping the R and W terminals (or associated wires) together. This will keep the furnace calling for heat. As it is approaching set temperature, get in front of the furnace and inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean, watch the control module for any error codes that may be turning off the system prematurely.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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