WTW600sw2 change keeps going into drain pump. Is there a way to adjust the drum seal to prevent this?
Once in the pump, the change cracks the plastic housing and you can not order the housing separately, costing hundreds of dollars each time to replace the pump.
Re: WTW600sw2 change keeps going into drain pump. Is...
There is no adjustment. There may b e coins still stuck in your filter that might make their way to the pump. To clear it out, you have to remove the basket from the tub. The filter will be in the back center of the tub. Remove the 2 screws and clean it out.
Scamp, the only solution is to empty the pockets...there is no funtional or non functional part to catch the coins, buttons, toothpicks, bra wires etc...Catriver...
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i'd check the drain pump-there is a seal where it attaches to the motor-leaks often there, also could be a leak in your tub seal between the tub and transmission, also sometimes the outter plastic tub gets a crack in it and leaks
Most headlights lens are sealed up to prevent this problem. A broken seal or a crack somewhere opened up to let in moisture.
You can drill a small hole on the lowest part of the plastic headlight housing to let the water drain out. Or, replace the plastic headlight assembly with a new sealed one.The plastic headlights turn yellow and cloud up over time (not because of moisture inside, because it's plastic getting ruined by the weather and the sun). This problem reduces headlights from putting more light on the road.
The only thing you can do with moisture inside the headlights is to drain out the water that builds up. The seals on the headlights are bad right now and are going to keep letting moisture in. I would replace the both headlight assemblies for new sealed, clear ones.
Hi, You will need to change the plastic bearing or it will ruin the felt seal that the drum rides on. I can assist you in getting the parts as well as how to change it if you would like. Please let me know if I can help.
You'll need to open the machine and check for the leaks in the hose connected to the drain pump. Also check if the clamp connecting the drain filter and hose is tight. Also check these things for leaks---
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you'll need to replace it.
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It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only During drain and spin only All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Or, you have coins in your pump casing. Look on the back of the washer, and unscrew the circular port in the
bottom right corner. (Keep an 8x13 baking pan underneath, water will
escape once you open the chamber). Remove and change/objects from the chamber and replace the port. You should be good to go. This is actually very common for this model washer.
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only During drain and spin only All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Scamp, the only solution is to empty the pockets...there is no funtional or non functional part to catch the coins, buttons, toothpicks, bra wires etc...Catriver...
You may want to check the seal at the bottom of the agitator, there is a o-ring that keeps the water in the drum from leaking through the agitator as it spins. This is a cheap seal and will wear over a period of time from exposure to bleach and detergent. You need to take the agitator apart and remove it from the drum and you should see this seal at the base of the agitator were it meets the drum.
Replace the seal and reassemble, take the metal casing off the washer and fill the drum with a little water, wait, and see if the water is leaking under the drum. If no leak, try to reassemble and run the washer. If is still leaks then check http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html
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