Sound doesn't come out of the right speaker.

Here's how to do it:
1. Remove the filter right behind the front grill. The top of the filter sticks out just a bit right under the movable louvers. Pull it towards you just a bit and upward to remove. See the care instructions that came with the AC unit if you still need help with this.
2. Behind where the top of the filter was, there are two screws, one at each end that hold the grill to the chassis. Remove these.
3. Face the side of the unit. Just where the leading edge of the plastic grill meets the sheet metal casing and up about a third of the way up from the bottom, there is a hidden tab on the plastic that engages a slotted hole in the metal. With your thumb, press in on the sheet metal about 1/8" while pulling gently up on the plastic grill. The tab in the grill holding it to the sheet metal case should release. Do this for the other side of the AC unit as well, and now the bottom of the grill should lift up.
4. Pivot up the grill. There are 4 tabs in the top edge of the grill that grab onto detents in the sheet metal housing. The grill will pivot up around those as a hinge. Lift the grill up about 45?.
5. There is a wire harness between the front electronic controls and the main board located in a metal box. Gently pull the wires and cable out of the box until the connector is exposed. Disconnect the connector.
6. You can now remove the grill from the sheet metal case. However, disengaging it from the sheet metal case may be difficult as when the grill pivots, the plastic tab hooks under the metal. You might try sliding a wooden popsicle stick between the plastic and the metal to raise the plastic enough for the tabs to clear the metal of the slots. Don't use a typical metal screw driver or you will damage the painted finish of the AC unit. You might find the following easier to do.
7. If you need to remove the sheet metal case as well, go ahead and remove all the screws that hold it to the chassis. There are a number on the top, sides and back. Unscrew and remove all of those. Then remove the grill and the metal case together. You should be able to separate the plastic grill from the casing more easily.
8. If like me, you need to straighten out the bent sheet metal of the chassis and the metal case (bent in shipping to me), I found using channel-type pliers with the teeth covered with a piece of towel to prevent scratches to the finish worked well.
9. Reassemble the unit in the reverse manner. Those tabs at the top of the plastic grill, since they are chamfered, can easily be pushed onto the metal case (i.e. they go on much easier than they came off). Just line up the grill square with the casing and push straight back.
10. If you find you have a couple of extra screws, check the back side near the top for two screws holes that are easy to overlook.

Note: after installing the AC unit into the through-the-wall sleeve and turning the unit on, it took about 3 minutes for the compressor to kick on and the unit to start cooling. I think this is part of the built-in compressor or circuit protection in case the unit is tipped or moved.

Hope this is helpful to you.

I just ran into this in 4 of my 5 DF Procimema 600 speakers. I ended up taking them all apart (be aware - this will probably void any warranty). To do this, you have to take the speaker grill off. Next, using a small phillips head screw driver, take out the top two screws on the front of the speaker. Note - everything you need to do will be from the front.. you don't actually remove anything from the top of the speaker. Next, using a pair of needle-nose plyers (or tweezers or whatever you have) remove the 6 little star-shaped plugs. These are where the spikes on the speaker grill insert to hold it in place. I thought they were some sort of weird screw at first until I removed one, then realized they are actually just a rubber plug. They pull right out - no twisting. Underneath them are 6 more phillips head screws - remove these and the front plate, speakers and all, will (should) pull right off without damage. The problem, well with all of my speakers at least, is that the connections inside come loose or fall off. I just took my needle-nose plyers and squeezed the connectors both where the wires run to the back of the case, and also to where they attach to the speaker. This literally solved all my problems and now my speakers work flawlessly again. Don't forget to put the white insulating material back in place before you put the speaker back together and you should be good to go. I hope this helps!

Checked the usual things:

Speakers not switched off in menu for TV (or a box if used)

Volume on set or a box not all the way down?

Sound out in just one speaker--this model the wires from the speakers are fairly tight--they can come undone where connect to the speaker(remove front grill below screen and examine them)

There is no fuse per say for the speakers or audio circuit.

Hi, the factory radio uses the illumination wire, but the aftermarket radio does not. You have to make sure that wire is taped off so it doesn't short the illumination circuit. Check your tail lights fuse. If it's blown, pull the head unit and disconnect/tape off the illumination wire (blue with a white stripe) from the factory harness. Then put in a fresh fuse. If you have more questions, please specify the model of the head unit.

1991 Ford Festiva Car Radio Wire Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/White
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green

Hi,
Check the wiring of the speaker that don't work, it might have been disconnected or the wires are cut.
Look at the wires inside the door panel, which the front speaker is located, the wires leading to it might have disconnected via door panel wire harness inlet. You could see the wires at or near the front door pillar hinges.
If the wire is cut off, strip the wire and join them together, wire color should be connected with the same color. After that insulate them by using electrical/plastic tape.
Your local technician can repair it.

Hope that helps you out.
Thanks for using Fixya!

Section 01-09: Mirrors, Rear View 1999 Taurus/Sable Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 06/25/1998 Mirror, Power-Outside Rear View Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Remove front door trim panel (23942). Refer to Section 01-05.
   

1. Remove radio speaker grille from cover assembly by squeezing or pinching between thumb and index finger.
   

1. Remove two screws from cover assembly.
   

1. Disconnect outside rearview mirror wiring connector (C515-LH; C615-RH). Remove wiring guides as necessary.
   

1. Remove three outside rear view mirror retaining nuts. Remove outside rear view mirror (17682) while guiding wiring and connector through hole in door.
   

Item Part Number Description 1 17682 Outside Rear View Mirror 2 N621906-S36 Nut (3 Req'd) 3 F8DB-17D699-
AAW Cover Assembly Rear Substrate-LH 3 F8DB-17D698-
AAW Cover Assembly Rear Substrate-RH 4 N808968 Screw 5 F8DB-18B984-
AAW Speaker Grille-Standard (No Badge)-LH 5 F8DB-18985-
AAW Speaker Grille-Standard (No Badge)-RH 5 F8DB-18K901-
BAW Speaker Grille-Mach-LH 5 F8DB-18978-
BAW Speaker Grille-Mach-RH 5 F8DB-238A35-
AAW Speaker Grille-Blank (No Speaker)-LH 5 F8DB-238A34-
AAW Speaker Grille-Blank (No Speaker)-RH A - Tighten to 6-8 Nm (54-70 lb-in) ------------------
Trim Panel, Door Front
Removal

1. Remove cover behind inside door handle.
   

1. Remove screw from bottom of pull cup retaining front door trim panel to front door (20124).
   

1. Remove three screws retaining front door trim panel to front door.
   

1. NOTE: Do not attempt to remove more than one pushpin at a time.
   
   Using Rotunda Windshield and Molding Trim Removal Kit 107-R0401 or equivalent, remove the door trim panel by pulling one door trim panel pushpin at a time from the inner door skin.
   

1. Disconnect electrical connectors as necessary. Refer to Section 01-14A.
   

Installation

1. Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
   

1. Replace all pushpins with new pushpins (N808994-S).
   

Front Door Trim Panel

You can open the front grill by sliding out from one corner. Once the grill is removed, open the speaker by unscrewing four screws using a philips star screwdriver. Once opened, you can spot the pot (brown circular device). mostly it requires only cleaning. You can use a syringe to pour some Isopropyl alchohol to one small opening at the side of the pot. make sure the power is disconnected before you try this.

Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers

Required Tools:

#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10 small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer

1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits before you attempt any panel work.

2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized tools required.


3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:

It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting everything back together.

a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square” plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the car.

b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and the escutcheon is easily removed.

c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left side by slip-in clips and they release easily.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two additional fasteners.

e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store it on the seats for safekeeping.

4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:

a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.

b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they have never been removed in the past, but they will release.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located in the middle of the door handle.

d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it outwards from the door.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are now removed.

f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed), carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter. Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another more worker friendly location.

5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by releasing the electrical connector.

b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not necessary.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was previously removed in Step 4a.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.

h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker can be removed from the panel.

6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount either type in either model.

a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.

b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount with only two fasteners.

c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers, place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.

d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect the speaker wire connector at the door panel.


7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.

8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is complete.

9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:

This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted woofers.

a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off the grill.

b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet metal mounting screws.

c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector for the speaker wires.

d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old leads to the new speaker terminals.

e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the electrical connector.

f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal screws.

g) Press the speaker grill into place.

h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.

Some speaker manufacturers design their boxes with non-removable front grills. Be thankful that you can remove the back because I've seen these sealed as well. Once inside, the speakers should be mounted from the inside (mounting screws on inside) compared to front mounted. IF they are not then either you're not using the proper method to remove the grill OR it's glued in place and will require breaking the glue bond to release the grill. One note to remember...non-removable grills can mean the manufacturer has something to hide.

first lets check
no need to open any thing

1) just trace the wire of working channel and plug out that and connect to opposite side of that channel


for example: if front left is not working, remove pin of front right and plug it into front left

after that listen the sound if front left is working then no need to open amplifier just check the wires of satellite speaker which is not working

how to check broken wire:

1) just observe your speaker nearly if you found any screw holes open it, if u can not find any screw holes remove front net which is fitted by press lock or any stepped groove, you can remove that and if you are removing front net you have to open speaker from casing then after you can find speaker's wire shouldered or bolted to it just check wire and go on after that u'll be sure that weather your speaker is failed or wire!!!

enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(don't forget to rate)